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WillAndersonpipes wrote:For the ebonite I use the lathe of course but for the stummel I eye ball it on the sanding disk first at about 120 grit then put the stem on and look where I have gaps then put a piece of 150 grit in a very flat surface and use that to true the stummel up. I don't use forstner bits because I still by hand after shaping so I don't think they would help me much
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Well, you're wrong.
I think he is shaping first then drilling. "still" = "drill" above.
You can get a perfect face by the hand method if you pay attention. You can also do it on a wood lathe with some focus. No brainer with a metal lathe.
WillAndersonpipes wrote:Yeah I am shaping first then hand drilling sorry auto correct got me I have fat fingers. I also don't have pen gauges yet but I'm workin on that
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You can turn your own pin out of scrap vulcanite, wood, metal, etc....
It will actually be more accurate than using a pin since almost all chuck jaws are a bit out of alignment.
The bowl shape is slightly too elongated on the shank side, this is visible in both the curvature of the profile shot and the top view (out of round). The shape is nice enough but has no real definition either, you could tighten in things like the shank flare more, and take more material off the stem, make it way thinner at the saddle for example. Lots of times a little color on a pipe like this will make it pipe a bit visally too.
Alright thanks here are the pipes that I was using to kinda get the shape I was looking for.
They kind of have that extended back portion of the bowl that just fades into the shank, I think this is why I left out some definition on mine. Does this just work better with these because they are sand blasted or what?
I think they have a little more curve on the back side.... I looked at the profile pic of your pipe and to me the bowl is all curve on the front, and almost a straight line on the back, headed down to the shank. A little more curve there and the bowl is both better defined and better proportioned.... imho.
Both pipes posted are also taller of bowl (compared to shank) than yours, they have just a little more room to express that shaping.
Alright gotcha so just a little more material off the lower back side of the bowl to define the bowl a little better.
Could you explain what you mean by them having more room to express there shaping? Are you saying because there shanks aren't as thick that the curve on the back of the bowl is able to go a little deeper giving it more definition?
Yeah there's a tiny bit more material off bowl and shank and it sharpens the shaping up on the blasts. I find the differential between the front and back side shaping more exaggerated on yours.
Yeah I think I was going for that forward canted look a little to hard and exaggerated the angle of that back curve too much. Thanks for the critique I appreciate it
