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I'm hoping that someone here can provide some solution to an issue I'm having both turning and integrating a wood embellishment ring to a stem. Can't believe that this hadn't been run into by others and solved. I'm using a wood lathe to true up the face of my stem and I can insert a delrin tenon. The problem is I would like to put on a wood ring followed by a thin piece acrylic like is seen on may pipes between the stem and shank. When creating the wood ring, I can face one side so it mates nicely on the stem but am having trouble facing the opposing (exposed) side so that it will accept the next ring squarely. Because I have the tenon extending beyond the ring, I cannot use a forstner bit to face the ring without taking the tenon off and using hand tools on the wood lathe seems like a crap shoot at best as a solution for getting squareness.

I can see with a metal lathe how this problem can be worked around but without that, how have others solved this issue? I guess I could just laminate all the pieces together in a solid material block, then add a tenon followed by cutting the stem as usual but that does't seem like it would be the strongest approach.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Pat

Why don't you wait until after you glue it up to insert the tenon?

That way you can face everything up as you go and put the tenon in last.

You'll find out pretty quick if you're gluing correctly. Stuff comes off if it's not done right, but you won't have the same problems you're having now. The good thing is that you can make use of quality CA glue for this. Your wait time is minimal, just depends on the set speed of the CA.

If you're nervous about using CA, just get some retarder (increases open time).

Thanks Andrew. I just don't have the experience with CA on an application like this and was concerned about stability of the end product. I'll do that and face each ring as I go and applying the tenon last. Appreciate the input.

-Pat

Another option is to use pin gauges to hold the wooden inlay in your headstock.

Nothing wrong with CA glue, I use it all the time for rings etc, in fact the only time I use epoxy is for tenons.

When I do spacers, I'll usually make them from rod stock or pen blanks. I'll chuck up the rod or blank, face it, then slice a piece off with a thin parting tool. As long as you slice it 90 degrees from your turning axis, both sides will be flat and even. You can even drill the hole to slide over the tenon before you slice off your piece of inlay material.

I gave the CA a try and then fitted a tenon. Unfortunately, the pipe got away from me on the shaping wheel and the delrin tenon broke between the main stem and the first ring with that glued joint breaking apart. Seems with pipe making, I need to screw up everything new at least once before I arrive at a process that will works for me. No exception here.

Never thought about a pin gauge but sounds like that may let me do things the way I originally planned.

Also, never heard of a parting tool but it looks to require a tool holder to utilize. Not having a tool holder on the wood lathe, tool rest only, is this something that is still an option.

-Pat

Get some pin gages and an Easy Wood Tool with a square cutter head. face one side and drill your hole for the tenon. Cut the piece off and chuck in a jacobs chuck in the headstock with a pin gage. Face the other side with the EWT and then glue it in the tenon. repeat for the next piece. I don't have a metal lathe and this is exactly how I do my rings.

RiverWader wrote:Also, never heard of a parting tool but it looks to require a tool holder to utilize. Not having a tool holder on the wood lathe, tool rest only, is this something that is still an option.

-Pat

A wood turning parting tool doesn't require anything additional. You use it with your tool rest just like any other wood turning tool. Youtube has tons of demo videos on them if want to see how they're used.

Thanks Emmanuel. Found the youtube demos.

-Pat

Unless you're really good with the parting tool cut, the face will not be flat enough. You'll need to reface it after cutting. That's been my experience anyway.

Me too, Wayne.

Even on a metal lathe the parting tool isn't accurate enough.

Another word of advice, after facing on the lathe the surface is likely too smooth for gluing. I take any pieces and using a paice of 320 grit paper on my surface plate I give them a couple of strokes, this will key up the surface nicely for gluing.