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I have some bits of meerschaum winging their way to me.
2 of them are in pipe blank type shapes, but the third is a big gnarly lump as it came out of the ground.

I know that you can work it wet like carving soap, or dry which is a bit brittle.

I think i am going to do the basic shaping and drilling wet, then finish dry. But how do it cut the big lump into a workable shape?
I worry if it is wet that a large irregular shape might not be very stable. I worry if it is dry it will crack.

Anybody have any experience of doing this?

I've only done one meerschaum pipe from a block, but I drilled it wet and did 99% of the shaping with a carving knife. Didn't take me that long to whittle away the extra material. You could easily use a bandsaw or coping saw even, because it's just that soft.

One way or another, you've gotta get it dry. That means it's got a chance it will crack. If it's going to crack, I'm not sure there's much you can do about it.

I think I remember seeing some useful information on working with it here. Do a search for it. I think Mr. Connoy goes into some detail.

I had a large lumpy block of meerschaum last year. I used the bandsaw to cut the wet block. It was super easy to cut into an ebauchon type shape and chuck into the lathe.

Thank guys.

I did a search before posting, and did find this useful thread viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6294 .
Not much on here about meerschaum though, and nothing from Walt Cannoy if that's who you mean (although he does make a brilliant meer pipe).

Joe thanks for that, i just had visions of it coming apart if wet as it was too soft! I'll give it a soak before cutting into blanks i think.
Did you soak again before chucking it or let it harden first?

Oakbear wrote:Thank guys.

I did a search before posting, and did find this useful thread viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6294 .
Not much on here about meerschaum though, and nothing from Walt Cannoy if that's who you mean (although he does make a brilliant meer pipe)

That is the thread I was referring to, for some reason I thought it was Walt Cannoy who was the main contributer (even though I spelled his name incorrectly )

I don't think it will matter too much. I let the block dry for a day or so just so it wasn't totally wet on the outside when cutting.

kamkiel wrote: That is the thread I was referring to, for some reason I thought it was Walt Cannoy who was the main contributer (even though I spelled his name incorrectly )

Ah cool, i just wanted to check i hadn't missed something. I'm sure that you can be forgiven for getting one letter wrong. My Sichaunese Mandarin is a bit rusty now i think about it!

Joe thanks for the info. I'm probably over thinking things as usual. The damn stuff hasn't even arrived safely yet!

Katana or wakizashi works best for cutting.

or maybe just a coping saw. I would keep it wet always until final shape is achieved.

Wakizashi is preferred for indoor cutting, although a plasma cutter is also an option.

Solomon_pipes wrote:Wakizashi is preferred for indoor cutting, although a plasma cutter is also an option.

Plasma cutter is overkill. Laser is really the way to cut Meerschaum properly.

Thanks for the advice gents. I was initially worried as i only have a Nodachi, which i thought might be a bit much, but managed to dig out the old military grade laser cutter from the attic, so i should be fine.