Oskar shape

[Albert.A]

Hello guys, I just finished this commission up. The shape is the "Oskar" shape designed by Tom Eltang for Chacom I believe.

I think it turned out really good exept for a few minor things and it is definitely the best contrast stain I've done so far.

Please tell me what you think! Critique welcome as always.

Regards,

/Albert

[Albert.A]

pics

[sandahlpipe]

Is that a flaw in the chamber or stain?

The shaping looks nice. I didn't go back and look at what the Chacom shape is, but it looks fairly close.

The stem and shank junction is not right. Every single picture where it is visible, you can see the line interrupted. There should be no seam between shank and stem, and especially no light gap.

The stain looks ok, except for the edges, where it looks like you over buffed or over sanded the stain off. You don't want the stain along the edges to look uneven.

[Albert.A]

That's a bit of stain in the chamber, I'm planing to remove it before sending the pipe to the owner.

You are right in everything you say, the seam between the shank and stem is because I for some reason decided to buff the stem separetly, and I was super careful, but it wasn't enough I guess. thesre is no light gap however, and the pipe is really small so it doesn't look to bad.

The stain is a little bit over buffed, but mostly on the "bowl line", not so much along the shank.

Thanks for the critique Jeremiah, you're always really fast to respond!

[PremalChheda]

Very nice shape. The stem & button are exceptional in form.

The finishing is good, but does not match up with the rest of the craftsmanship.

Why buff the stem independent of the stummel?

[socrates]

Like the shape for sure. Thanks for the peek.

Sent from my HTC0P3P7 using Tapatalk

[Albert.A]

Why buff the stem independent of the stummel?

Well, the reason is that I felt that I needed to buff the stem harder than the stummel to bring the shine out really well, and I wanted to avoid buffing the stain off of the sharp edges (I ended up doing that a bit anyway), so I decided to "pre buff" the stem separatelly, and thats when the slight rounding over the edges occured I guess.

Any tips and tricks on how to avoid buffing the stain off of sharp edges would be welcome, but I guess it's just a matter of gbeing more carefull (I did really try to be carefull this time so it's a bit frustrating to still mess it up!)

[sandahlpipe]

I sand my stem/shank joint to 1000 grit and buff the stem (with tripoli) attached to the shank before staining. White diamond won't take off much of the stain, so I can buff relatively care-free at that point.

[PremalChheda]

Why buff the stem independent of the stummel?

Well, the reason is that I felt that I needed to buff the stem harder than the stummel to bring the shine out really well, and I wanted to avoid buffing the stain off of the sharp edges (I ended up doing that a bit anyway), so I decided to "pre buff" the stem separatelly, and thats when the slight rounding over the edges occured I guess.

Any tips and tricks on how to avoid buffing the stain off of sharp edges would be welcome, but I guess it's just a matter of gbeing more carefull (I did really try to be carefull this time so it's a bit frustrating to still mess it up!)

Sand higher than 1000 on the stem and when buffing do not go above the mid point of the wheel, and go slow.

[sandahlpipe]

Just out of curiosity, what happens when you do go above the mid point of the wheel? I always buff below the middle. I suppose I should try it and find out...

[PremalChheda]

Just out of curiosity, what happens when you do go above the mid point of the wheel? I always buff below the middle. I suppose I should try it and find out...

Above, it pushes against you, below it pulls away.

[Albert.A]

Above, it pushes against you, below it pulls away.

And what would that do other than make it difficult to hold the pipe properly?

I sand my stem/shank joint to 1000 grit and buff the stem (with tripoli) attached to the shank before staining. White diamond won't take off much of the stain, so I can buff relatively care-free at that point.

If you buff the joint of the shank and stem before staining, wouldn't the tripoli clog up the briar a little bit, preventing the stain from penetrating that area as good as on the rest of the pipe? Or can you just remove the tripoli residue with alcohol or something?

Thanks for the help guys!

[sandahlpipe]

I do need to remove tripoli with alcohol and then sand it lightly before it will take stain again.

[PremalChheda]

Above, it pushes against you, below it pulls away.

And what would that do other than make it difficult to hold the pipe properly?

I sand my stem/shank joint to 1000 grit and buff the stem (with tripoli) attached to the shank before staining. White diamond won't take off much of the stain, so I can buff relatively care-free at that point.

If you buff the joint of the shank and stem before staining, wouldn't the tripoli clog up the briar a little bit, preventing the stain from penetrating that area as good as on the rest of the pipe? Or can you just remove the tripoli residue with alcohol or something?

Thanks for the help guys!

Good questions and really you will find out by trying some things out. Buffing is all about control and it is a very difficult skill to master. Until you have it down very well, sand higher so you have to buff less.

[PremalChheda]

You are not very far off from making the finish excellent. If you get a chance, please call me and maybe I can help with some of the process over the phone, or skype.

[Albert.A]

You are not very far off from making the finish excellent. If you get a chance, please call me and maybe I can help with some of the process over the phone, or skype.

Thanks Premal, maybe I'll just call you sometime!