pipemakersforum.com

Hey guys,
when I first pick up a block of briar, is there a way to figure out what to expect from it? The blocks I get are obviously cut before drying. Some have warped sides, some are darker than others... I haven't noticed anything else.

Is there a way to 'read' these (and other) signs to know what to expect from a block? Or is it just the Luck of the Briar?

Hit all the sides with your sanding disc to clean and straighten them then spray with some water to see grain patterns. For the most part, what you see on the outside will be very similar to what is on the inside. If you are asking if there is any way to know if there are any big flaws on the inside the answer is no. Although it can be painful to the wallet when you are starting out or only buy a few blocks at a time the best bet is to buy from a reputable source and buy the best grades of briar. Guys like Mimmo have spent their whole lives around briar and can "read" it better than anyone. If he stamps it a grade 1 there is a reason for it. If he stamps it a grade 3 there is a reason for it. (However, even that doesn't guarantee that the block will be free of flaws its just a better bet.)

One trick to read the grain is to determine where the core of the burl was in relation to your block. It will help you determine where your grain radiates from and if/how much off center the grain is and how tight the grain will radiate. With practice you can easily tell the size of the burl from which your block was cut. This helps in determining the shape that will best suit the block. For example, a block cut from a small burl will radiate tighter and fan out more sharply and be better suited for round shapes like apples and tomatoes rather than billiards. As for flaws, there are sometimes telltale signs of flaws like checks and pits on the surface but it's not so easy to tell how deep the flaw is and where it goes. Sometimes you can predict when a flaw goes all the way through and out the other side or top or whatever but there's no guarantee.

Another tip: as mentioned, sand the sides to get rid of the coarse saw blade marks from the cutter. Also sand the "front" of the block. Let's say you have great looking radial grain on the sides but the front has grain that runs at a goofy angle. IF the block is big enough you can correct this by re-cutting it to now make the grain better correspond to what is on the sides. Those that shape before drilling can straighten this out during the shaping process without re-cutting the block.
Also if you are drilling first (either on a lathe or drill press), make every effort to make the two clamping surfaces parallel. If they are not you are likely to have a problem with the airway not being where it is supposed to be in the bottom of the bowl.

So, in short: time will make you "see" better. The more blocks go through your hands, the better you'll learn to read them.
In the beginning, don't worry too much about grain, get your hands and eyes used to shaping first.

I use a hand plane (razor sharp) to remove the rough saw marks, but your sanding disk is fine. Once you sand or plane off the rough marks, you can soak each side in mineral spirits or some other fast-drying liquid, and that will make the grain even more obvious.