pipemakersforum.com

LatakiaLover wrote:

pipedreamer wrote:The fool proof way is to place stem in container full of salt at 350 degrees for 10 to 15 min. Stem will get very pliable , have a pipe cleaner already in it. Now with light gloves on bend to where you want it then run cool water over it.You can bend it many ways but this one is the right way,

There are several reasons this is a poor method.

-- If you heat the stem by itself, you'll have to bend it off the bowl, which will result in an approximation as opposed to a "finely tuned" shape. Also, inadvertently touching/moving the tenon will knock it off square enough there will be a light gap later, no matter how much it reverts to straight when the deflection pressure is removed.

-- If you heat the stem and the bowl together, the tenon will not only bend but stretch when the main portion of the stem is bent. Besides producing a light gap after cooling, the tenon will also be loose. (For those of you who say, "But that's how the factories do it, I've seen the videos!", actually no, it isn't. They all used a box or shield apparatus that causes only the stem to heat---the entire pipe doesn't soak in an oven.)

Using a heat gun is considerably safer, much faster, and allows a more finely-tuned bend. The difference is enough that if I were forced for some reason to use the salt & oven soak method, I'd probably quit repair work. Much slower + induced light gaps + approximate bends would make my head explode with rage-y frustration.

oklahoma red wrote:If you are just starting to work with acrylic stems be very sure you are working with CAST acrylic rod and not extruded. Most of the fancy, swirly colored pen blanks that are being utilized for stems are actually polyester (even tho they may be marketed as acrylic) which I would rank somewhere between cast and extruded acrylic.

pipedreamer wrote:Never had those problems, just lucky.I use a heat gun on other than acrylic stems. Yes it does take time.