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Alden wrote:

The Smoking Yeti wrote:This thread is getting weird.

This whole forum is getting weird.

Getting weird? I think it started out that way.

Most things 'round here do

Know y'all most likely have done this, but if you nail the top of a baby food jar to the under portion of a shelf, you can then screw the jar into it, really useful for screws, etc., etc. Great stuff.

You guys know that Bell and Kerr both sell 4oz mason jars, right?

Yeah, but I have two babies and have more baby food jars than mason jars most of the time. I do can things quite often and have quite a few jelly jars too.

Pipemaker brethren, go onto the world and make babies!

Scottie's way ahead of some of us there.

Random, but your comment reminded me of something, Charl. There's a really weird, IMO, ad being run in Chicago right now for a local radio station. The basic message of each ad, and most say this verbatim, is, "We want listeners tomorrow. Go make babies today."

The Mighty Charl has spoken and so I must comply......the next one is due in June

scotties22 wrote:The Mighty Charl has spoken and so I must comply......the next one is due in June

You'd better have the GKCPC carving contest entry done early!!!

Well........I have a block picked out I'm gonna drill and shape it this week and then wait until later to put a stem on it. I want to make sure I have a great block picked out and still give myself time to get another if I need to.

Back on track:

I mixed one part Zinsser Bullseye shellac (non-spray can) with 1.5 parts de-natured alcohol in my baby food jar. I then spread said mixture on some sample briar pieces with a pipe cleaner. Some stain came off but not so much to affect the look or even notice really. I buffed the pieces with my Beall woodbuff system using Ryobi 1/4 to 1/2-inch arbor adaptors from Home Depot and my corded Milwuakee hand drill.

And....they look great!

So I coated my first pipe with the shellac mixture and plan on buffing it this week. I'll be sure to post photos in the gallery section.

That's basically what I do. I have a few that I have put a few drops of stain in too. I use them more now than I do the uncolored stuff.

Great info yet again, thanks.

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I use super blonde shellac flakes. The premixed stuff is fine but I have more control with shellac flakes. Keep adding flakes to a jar of denatured alcohol and shaking it up several times a day until you add flakes and it will no longer dissolve. Strain it into another jar then make your cuts. I find adding the concentrated shellac 1:1 with denatured alcohol a good mix for sandblasted and rusticated pipes. I use full concentration for French polishing smooth finishes.

Question: I'm relatively new to this forum, and equally new to staining pipes.
I've noticed when experimenting with contrast staining that if alcohol based stain is used for both layers, I get a muddy color on my application/wiping cloth. So I've been discussing this with a luthier friend and he suggested (as many of you have) a water based stain for the top, which should eliminate the first stain app bleeding into the second. Ok, I think I understand the premise. However, if shellac is cut with DNA, will it effect the first (alcohol based) stain applied?

You can avoid (or nearly avoid) the muddying of colors by letting the stain air dry for several hours ( I let it sit overnight at least between different color coats.) You can also avoid the muddying by applying the top coat only lightly (I.e. Going around the pipe with the light stain only once and then wiping it off. )

Although I rarely use shellac, I think the same principles would apply.


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Wiping shellac can still lift your first stain. Applying the water base second can help. You will not get as much of the mixing effect since the stains are not the same base.
Just be quick and don't spend a bunch of time rubbing one spot.

andrew

Thank you Andrew and sandahlpipe for your response.

So, is it the rubbing that "re-activates" (or causes muddying of) the former applications?

Ok, what if we could apply stain or shellac without rubbing? I'm leaning towards airbrush application. Would this type of application significantly reduce or negate the potential of muddying?

What's happening is of course that you have some pigment in a solvent, you apply it, it dries, and then you come along with solvent again (eg the next color of stain). Move fast, travel light!

Troubles occur with airbrushing according to experts - the idea here is never to build a layered finish proper because it will indeed just come off. There is positive pressure on the finish when you smoke a pipe.

Seems like I see lots of guys applying stain and shellac with pipecleaners. Just because they're disposable?
Seems like a wide soft brush would be faster, allow for a lighter touch, and more even coverage.... Is it just an ass-pain to keep the brushes nice and clean?

Or is it the well-loved 'just use what's on hand' thing?

Jeremy.