Want to show you work to the world? Want a place to post photos of your work and solicit the opinions of those that have gone before you? Post your work here.
If I was gonna pick at this pipe from a classical shaping point of view, I'd knock it for two very minor things. First, the top ring being as it were "part" of the top of the pipe bugs me visually. Second, I'd suggest that the shank is a tiny bit long in proportion to the bowl and in proportion to the overall pipe, particularly if you look at the "ordinary" proportions of stem length being roughly equal to 1/2 the entire pipe.
But those are I think personal preferences maybe more than some established guideline.... I dunno.
Anyway, you did a very nice job on keeping the diamond centered on the mortise, and anyone who has done a bully like this knows that's ANYTHING but a given. Great pipe.
PS out of curiosity, why would you bevel the tenon end so significantly on a straight pipe? I thought the theory on that was to leave things as smooth internally as possible?
Maybe you should have made these comments and critiques three years ago when I started this thread. They're of no help now.
Muahaha!! My threadsurrection paid off! I was actually searching for techniques on how sharp, raised lines are made (as in the pipe below) and found Rad's bulldog, and a nice one at that. Didn't find anything on the lines though.
Those are done "hot" Nate. Take a heat gun and warm up the briar once you've got it drilled and mostly shaped. Then you sort of push and mould those lines into place while the briar is still warm and pliable. Once it cools down you can't really do it unless you're very strong, but then there's a risk of breakage.
Sasquatch wrote:Those are done "hot" Nate. Take a heat gun and warm up the briar once you've got it drilled and mostly shaped. Then you sort of push and mould those lines into place while the briar is still warm and pliable. Once it cools down you can't really do it unless you're very strong, but then there's a risk of breakage.
I had thought the art of 'working hot' was lost; good to see some people renewing the tradition.
Sasquatch wrote:Those are done "hot" Nate. Take a heat gun and warm up the briar once you've got it drilled and mostly shaped. Then you sort of push and mould those lines into place while the briar is still warm and pliable. Once it cools down you can't really do it unless you're very strong, but then there's a risk of breakage.
I see. In thinking about it, all the action (well, the effective action) must be in the wrists. I'm sure the thumb use is crucial also.
I will use some junk blocks first, as in most 'old art' practice makes perfect. So a heat gun is the best method? How about an oven?
The oven would work, but of course if you use the heat gun you can have the block spinning on the lathe while you heat it up and if you're careful, you can work it just like a potter's wheel.
Someone is going to google how to make the rings on a bulldog and this will show up, they will then be sat in front of their lathe with a heat gun and a mangled burnt block of briar wondering what went wrong lol.
Sasquatch wrote:
PS out of curiosity, why would you bevel the tenon end so significantly on a straight pipe?
'Cause that's how I roll, motherfucker.
Rad
Well that's cool. It's just that I was trying to explain to one of our mutual clients why my pipes smoke so much better than yours, and I couldn't quite put my finger on it. Now I know.
