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I have been playing around with different ideas over the past few days. This is my first attempt at this little pipe and I thought I would share. The shank is .308" in diameter at the stem end. I ran ss tubing the length of the shank and it has a reverse tenon. It is surprisingly strong....I dropped it on the floor a few minutes ago (that's why there's no foot....it snapped off ) and it didn't crack
With the next one I want to get the shank down under .25". This is a work in progress and a design I am going to be playing with for the next little while. Like getting a ball nose end mill so I can drill the chamber like normal instead of having to use my damned dremel to open it up
I still have a bit of shaping to do to the bowl, just to clean up the lines a bit. And I still don't know how I feel about the fishtail and the stem in general.
All comments welcome.
Am I Calamity Jane or Annie Oakley??...depends on the day. www.ladybriar.com
I like where this is heading. I could see myself smoking a lightweight pipe like this.
I still haven't figured out fishtails on tapered stems. You probably need to make the fishtail less pronounced somehow, whether that means making it narrower or making the taper more gradual.
The rim inside the chamber looks a little rough, but I can't tell if those are shadows or drill bit chatter.
The side of the bowl opposite the shank looks too tall for my taste, but there are certainly examples of clay pipes shaped like this, so it's not completely wrong.
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Fail early, fail often. Your success depends on it.
I used a 1/2" forstner to drill the chamber and opened it up with my dremel. I haven't sanded it yet, so it is REALLY rough inside.
I used a clay pipe I have as an example and it has quite an exagerated rim. I have made a few pipes this way and like the way it looks.....on the right pipe.
I'm actually trying to decide if I want to put a traditional button on it at all. I think the next one might have a very tiny button on it that is the same diameter as the rest of the shank.....we'll see. Gotta give that some more thought.
Am I Calamity Jane or Annie Oakley??...depends on the day. www.ladybriar.com
In the Eltang school of stems, go wide on the button for comfort unless you are married to the idea of a true clay pipe clone. Start the stem's taper further up toward the joint then it won't be so abrupt looking. This would be a good candidate for a tapered-wall bowl to keep some decent wall thickness in the chamber otherwise it will be a red-hot momma. Food for thought: carbon fiber tubing for the tenon, reverse or standard.
I drilled the airway and then drilled for and insterted my tubing. Then I turned it with a live center in the tailstock.
I really want to go with a clay clone, I think. Gonna take it with me to the meeting tonight and let George and Quinton have a look at it and see what they say.
Why carbon fiber? Lighter? Any other advantages?
Am I Calamity Jane or Annie Oakley??...depends on the day. www.ladybriar.com
Maybe round the shank side of the bowl a little more to echo the front side. Other than that the shaping is excellent, especially the shank and first part of the stem.
Fishtail stems need to be much more gradual to give a more elegant look, rather than round, round round, round....... FLAIR!
RadDavis wrote:Maybe round the shank side of the bowl a little more to echo the front side. Other than that the shaping is excellent, especially the shank and first part of the stem.
Fishtail stems need to be much more gradual to give a more elegant look, rather than round, round round, round....... FLAIR!
Well this one is as finished as its gonna get. It's going to be my shop pipe and I have to move on to other things...namely pipes I can sell . I have an idea for the button on the next one.
Wow...those pictures aren't as clear as I thought they were
Am I Calamity Jane or Annie Oakley??...depends on the day. www.ladybriar.com
) and it didn't crack 
