Pimo Shaped Spade Bit Question

ScoJo · Post by **ScoJo** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 7:17 pm

Recently I ordered this set of three bits. If anyone out there has them, I have a question. On the outside bag for the bits, there was a sticker that said for best results to use a regular spade bit first and go 2/3 deep into the chamber. I threw away the outside bag, and I don't remember what size it suggested to use for this "pilot" hole. It was either 9/16 or 11/16. Does anyone still have that instruction? What would you use? I assume I will start with the 3/4" bit for the actual chamber. Is 1/16 less (11/16) okay, or would smaller be better?

Thanks,
Scott

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 7:37 pm

Scott,

I've used spade bits for almost all of my pipes to date and have never used another spade bit as a pilot. Typically, I'll drill a 1/8" pilot to guide my 3/8" pilot to within 1/4" of the draught hole. So, when you drill with the spade bit you'll be tracking with a 3/8" hole. Then you'll finish off the last 1/4" with the spade bit which will drill much easier toward the end. Make sure you approach the draught hole in small increments so you don't pass the draught hole and end up having to scrap the stummel. It's not as difficult as it might sound. You'll get the hang of it quickly.

Jeff

Post by **Tyler** » Sun Nov 28, 2004 12:12 am

I never use a pilot. I have always found it to cut better without. I seem to be alone in this though.

Tyler

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sun Nov 28, 2004 1:41 am

Tyler wrote:I never use a pilot. I have always found it to cut better without. I seem to be alone in this though.

Not at all. I've not used a pilot hole yet.

MikeStanley · Post by **MikeStanley** » Sun Nov 28, 2004 10:40 pm

Pimo recommends a 9/16th pilot with the spade bits.
Mike Stanley

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Sun Nov 28, 2004 11:32 pm

Pimo recommends a lot of things

JG

pipemaker · Post by **pipemaker** » Mon Nov 29, 2004 12:02 am

As Tyler pointed out, it is not necessary to use a pilot hole for a spade bit.
I drill a pilot hole to function as a depth gauge.
When drilling the pilot hole, it is easy to feel when it gets to the previously bored draft hole. I simply mark the depth on the shank of the pilot bit and transfer it to the chamber boring bit. This allows the chamber to be drilled to bottom exactly at the draft hole.

Mike

MikeStanley · Post by **MikeStanley** » Mon Nov 29, 2004 8:48 pm

As one who uses an inexpensive Delta drill press to bore the tobacco chamber, I believe the pilot helps reduce the chatter. These aren't the best drill presses on the market. They, are, IMHO, well worth the money for the fiscally challenged like me. I paid $58.00 butI digress.I generally start with a 1/2 bit, and use a 9/16 bit before the 3/4 spade bit. For a lathe or a "better" drill press, this is probably a waste of time but for my very un Tim the Toolman Taylor set-up, it seems to help.
Mike Stanley

stdly · Post by **stdly** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 11:10 pm

I have found that a pilot hole can cause more chatter. It all depends on the pressure used when drilling with the spade bit and if the bit was sharpened symmetrically.

I would rather not use a pilot myself but I am very careful to measure a depth to cut to and make sure my depth gauge is secure. Then I go at it to the depth I need with firm pressure and retract the bit quickly after getting there. If you miss the depth and have to re-enter you will get chatter and have to sand it smooth.

MikeStanley · Post by **MikeStanley** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 11:41 pm

I would have to agree after the couple of tobacco chambers I drilled this week. I didn't use a pilot hole and both came out smooth.I did make sure the bit, which I bought from Tim West, was as sharp as I can make it. Tim's spade bits seem a bit "better' than the Pimos I have. More conical.
Mike Stanley

Jeffery · Post by **Jeffery** » Tue Dec 14, 2004 12:11 pm

I have also found that a pilot will cause more chatter...

I use no pilot, and it seems to drill nice and smooth... though, the thought of using a pilot as a depth gauge make sense... interesting idea...

Lakemonster · Post by **Lakemonster** » Tue Dec 21, 2004 8:41 pm

I've gotten to the point where i have made my chamber drilling a 5 step process............

I use a drill press.

I have a standard 3/8 bit that I mark with masking tape to keep it 1/8 inch off where my finished out bottom would be...... then I have Forstner bits marked with tape as well.... 1/2.....5/8..3/4.... thse are each marked so I dont go too deep with each one and mess up the continuous curve that the spade bit will end up providing.....

the idea is to make the spade bit do as little work as possible.

I use cheap spade bits that I grind to shape myself..... and I use cheap bits to drill my draught holes. Heres why.

I drill my draught hole and mortise out first. and surface the face..... then I LEAVE the draught hole bit in the block. I unchuck the bit and flip the block to drill my chamber.

When I come down in with that spade bit. it will end up striking the draught bit. I can then remove the draught hole bit and carefully finish out to the perfect depth.

Ive NEVER overshot one since...... $2 for more cheap bits? or $20 for another Plateaux block?

If I had a metal lathe........... this would all be moot.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Wed Dec 22, 2004 12:07 pm

Pipe cleaners work just as well, and cheaper too.

Paul_Tatum · Post by **Paul_Tatum** » Wed Dec 22, 2004 7:10 pm

Nick wrote:Pipe cleaners work just as well, and cheaper too.

I used a pipe cleaner once and the spade bit grabbed it and yanked it into the bowl. It was a mess and it scarred up the chamber walls. The only reason I used the pipe cleaner was because I couldn't lay my hands on my usual tool, a wooden skewer.
Normally I measure the bowl depth in general terms on the depth stop and when the spade gets close to the bottom I insert the skewer and feel for the spade to start tapping it. If I go too fast and hit the skewer too much it just shears off, no big deal. Also, the wood skewer doesn't mess up the nice edge I spent all that time on grinding onto the spade surface. That pipe cleaner that got mangled did a number on the burr of my spade bit. The skewer also comes in handy for mixing epoxy, and sharpened skewers are good for diggin out any errant carnuba wax that might get stuck in sandblast crevices.
Popsicle sticks (AKA craft sticks) are useful disposable items also.

Paul

stdly · Post by **stdly** » Wed Dec 22, 2004 8:49 pm

I drill my chamber first and then my draft hole. Am I doing this in reverse order or is it each to his own?

stdly · Post by **stdly** » Wed Dec 22, 2004 11:54 pm

I just thought there might be an advantage to doing it draft first that I might have missed. You never know till you ask!

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Thu Dec 23, 2004 12:18 pm

Random,

That's how I do it. I typically drill the mortise, followed by the draught hole and the tobacco hole. I've done it the other way as well, both by hand and with a vise and press. However, I prefer doing the chamber last because of the ability to match the chamber to the draught hole instead of running the risk of drilling too high and using pipe mud to fill the gap. Although, I've never done that, the risk alone has precluded the continuation of that process in my shop. However, there are tons of people (if not most that I know) that do it as you have described and have no problems. Maybe I'm just scared!

Jeff

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