Spade bits

[KurtHuhn]

A couple years ago, when I first got into pipe making, I went "by the book" when I bought my first set of tools. I got a set of three spade bits from PIMO that really fit the bill for a lot of standard shapes.

Problem is, the bits are very round on the bottom, very close to squared off. I've seen other spade bits for pipe making, and they're also this shape. However, teh shapes that I get a lot of requests for (bulldog, dublin and others) require a conical bit to avoid walls too thin, or having to make the bowls uncomfortably big.

Soooooo....a few months ago I started grinding my own spade bits. So far it's working out well, if not spectacularly. Does anyone know of any kind of substantial bit that gives a conical hole? Ball mills or a marble plunge bit for a router make great round-bottom cylindrical holes. Is there a good round-bottom conical bit like that?

[Tyler]

I don't know of any off-the-shelf conical bits...mine are custom ground by Ken Lamb.

www.lambpipes.com

Tyler

[jeff]

A step up from the conical-ground spade bits is a reshaped silver and deming bit. The 1/2 shafts provide a ton of stability and they have some of the misshaping problems caused sometimes when using a spade bit improperly. Although tons of "big" pipemakers still use the spade bits (as do I) I am planning on buying a cheap set of silver and demings to try to grind myself. I'll let you know how it works after I give it a shot.

Jeff

[Tyler]

Jeff,

What is a silver and demings bit?

Tyler <always on the look out for a new tool!>

[KurtHuhn]

It's a reduced shank bit. See:
http://www.arizonatools.com/catalog/bro ... 2133-2136/
The idea is sound. I assume you would re-shape the bit on a metal lathe. Or some sort of grinding jig. I'd love to see the results of this.

I've found tapered ball-end mills around (for metalwork), but nothing larger than 1/2". There are also conical router bits in different diameters, but they're more of a pointed cylinder shape. I did see a rotary rasp bit at Lowes yesterday that looked like the perfect shape. I sure wouldn't want to try and drill a hole with it though.

[Tyler]

Ah, OK.

I guess that is what I have.

As I said, Ken Lamb ground them for me. He uses a CNC grinder to get them perfectly symmetrical and very sharp.

Tyler

[KurtHuhn]

Ok, Tyler. I'm officially jealous. I'll have to send Ken an email and ask him he'd be willing to make me a set.

[jeff]

I also thought about getting him to grind me a few until I saw his prices! Whoa, Tyler, you must have an unlimited budjet as a pastor! That's why I figured I'd jump at the $8-$15 set of bits through ebay or a wholesaler and attempt grinding them myself. I'll let y'all know how it turns out if I get to them.

Jeff

[Tyler]

LOL!

An unlimited budget, I most certainly do not have!

What I do have is a source of pipe income. I also bought them before Ken was up to his current prices. It was still expensive though!

This brings up an intereting question about pipe making. When and how to start selling your work. For me, it was a necissity in order to continue making pipes. I needed an income stream to buy the necessary tools and materials. This might not be the best move from a marketing standpoint though.

I think I'll start a new thread exploring this question.

Tyler

[KenLamb]

Greetings,
I saw a hit from this forum on my sitemeter. I would be more than happy to explain the cost of my drill bits. I use USA made drill bits. I feel in my experience in the tool and die business, they are of superior quality over foreign made tools.
To set up on a CNC surface grinder and program the different profiles and program the relief, and checking the concentricity of the bits, after grinding. It takes a little time. I charge $65.00 per hour to grind tools. You can grind a drill bit by hand and have successful results. I know many old timers that can match a CNC ground bit in its cutting abilities. I know it is for cutting wood, but if you can aid in the engineering of a pipe with a drill bit that needs no pilot hole and will save you time in sanding out the bowl. To a professional pipemaker, my drill bits are a savings. If you are a hobbyist. I would not purchase drill bits from me, your not trying to make money at your craft.
I hope this helps.
Happy smoking,
Ken

[Tyler]

Let me add to Ken's comments that he provided me with some wonderful customer service. I had trouble with a bit -- through NO fault of Ken's -- and he spent consderable time and effort to make it right for me. One of the best things that comes with Ken's bits is Ken!

Yes, they are expensive, but you are getting what you pay for.

BTW, welcome to the forum, and thanks for dropping in to explain. Don't be a stranger!

Best,
Tyler

[Nick]

I saw a router bit that looked like it would make a wonderful bowls in a wood working stor the other day. When I asked if it would work for that purpose, the woman said it would work just fine. If my father in law, doesn't have one, I'm planning on investing in it.

[Gatorade]

gone

[KurtHuhn]

Kurt, I too started off with a PIMO bit... and like their tenon-turner it soon went bye-bye. I grind my own, rough them to shape then chuck them into the lathe for final shaping, then put an edge on them with file and stone. No complaints here, they seem to work just fine.

So if you're grinding your own bits how come you need a V-shaped one with a rounded bottom? Why not make one?

They do work well enough, but tend to chatter towards the bottom of the bowl. I suspect that this is because the bit isn't uniform on both sides. I'm going to give your method a try though, for some reason it never crossed my mind to do that. It seems like an excellent idea for spade bits - have you ever tried it with silver and demmings bits?