Nailed the drilling!

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Fri Sep 17, 2004 9:06 am

Ok, so most of you guys do this on a regular basis, but I was psyched. Last night I was working on a pipe, a gift for my boss. Well the draught hole and the mortise had to be drilled at different angles. I was worried I'd mess it all up and either have a crappy pipe for my boss of have to start over. Man! I was just dead on! I drilled the draught hole first, then the mortise, and it came out dead center. Perfect in the bowl too!

In retrospect, I can see where drilling the mortise first would make that easier. As a matter of fact, the other pipe I am working on, and drilled next, I dirilled just so; mortise first and then draught hole. That came out right on too. The draught hole meets the bowl a bit to the left, but not much. Less than 1/8th of an inch.

Well anyway, I was just psyched and wanted to share my success.

Post by **Tyler** » Fri Sep 17, 2004 10:10 am

Well done Nick!

It is always exciting to begin to master a process that we have been working on.

If you don't mind a few tips, I have found that my success in the area has been greatly improved from two key steps: 1.) using a self-centering chuck, and 2.) ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS square the block before using it. I square the block with my combo belt sander/disc sander using the disc sander portion with the table set at 90 (obviously). Since I have begun squaring the blocks well, I don't think I've missed a drill alignment.

Tyler

bscofield · Post by **bscofield** » Fri Sep 17, 2004 10:17 am

I love looking down that hole and seeing a perfect hit!!!

For those using a press (like myself) I'd add also:

Squaring the block is key because it prevents the drill bit from slipping down whatever direction it appears to be sloping.

Take your drill bit for the air hole or mortise (whichever your using) and either throw it up as far as possible into the chuck OR make a smaller bit with the end result that it sticks out about 1" or 3/4". This will cause little to no "slippage" and so you can start the hole in the definate angle that you intend.

Happy drilling!

stdly · Post by **stdly** » Wed Sep 22, 2004 7:34 pm

Nick,
It is a good felling! I have missed on a couple and the oposite of that feeling is great.
My father-in-law told me to use brad point bits for my draft holes. I have never tried one, does anyone have any experience with them? Do they help hold centers better than a normal bit. I do use 4 flute end mills for my mortises even in the drill press, they do a fine job!

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 7:59 am

I use a brad point for my mortise. But hadn't thought about it for the draught hole. Might make sense. What is different about a milling bit?

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 8:54 am

Milling bits are *beefy*, so they're much more stable, resist chattering, and don't flex.

A brad-point bit might work for the airway, but the best insurance against an off-center airway (aside from lining things up well) is a nice stiff bit. Length=flexibility, and if you can get your chuck to swallow everything you don't absolutely need, you'll be less prone to having the bit wander off course.

Post by **Tyler** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 11:19 am

I use a brad point for the draught hole.

Back in the day, when learning how to make a pipe required a visit to Trever's old site, Trever commented on how much his drilling accuracy improved when he started using a brad point for the draught hole. He commented that he was shocked by how much his regular bits had been wandering, as evidenced by accuracy with which the brad point drilled. Because of that commet by Trever, I have used a brad point from day one, and have been very pleased.

Tyler

ArtGuy · Post by **ArtGuy** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 12:24 pm

I just recently switched to a brad point for the draught hole.... much nicer. I use one for the mortice too but you need to drill it first. If you use any kind of pilot hole with a brad point, your hole will be much bigger than the bit due to vibration and such.

John

stdly · Post by **stdly** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 4:58 pm

Guys thanks for the reassurance on the bits. I guess I am off to Lee Valley to get a set of brad points. Dam I hate when the father in law is right. I'm joking we get along fine.
I tried a Canadian shape pipe a week ago and almost put the bit through the side of the shank. It was a right off. It was a 3" long shank but I have drilled tool steel straighter than that before.

Nick,
As Kurt said and make sure you get a 4 flute (less chatter) not a slot drill (2 flutes). You can get them with center cutting if there is no pilot hole to work with. They are made to cut high carbon steel so if you take care of them they should last a very long time. I use a 1/4 for mortising and get a hole around .504 in a drill press. Not bad I would say.