Re-Contrasting

[TRS]

I'm finishing up a billiard and I

sanded to 220
stained dark brown
sanded to 320
stained light brown
sanded to 400
stained yellow
looked at and didn't like contrast
read forum and realized I shoulda done dk brwn twice

Do I need to take it all back to 220 again? Thanks all!

[KurtHuhn]

Naw. Just scuff it with 400, throw the dark brown on it heavily, hit it with your lighter to burn off the stain and warm the wood slightly, then hit it with dark brown again. Carefully, sand back the stain with used 400 or new 600 and you should have a nice contrast.

[TRS]

Thanks Kurt!

[Briarfox]

I just finished a pipe buffed waxed and all, but the stain job is uninspiring. Whats the best way to strip it? usually I'd just tand it down but I would prefer not to touch the stamp, as sanding on it will diminish the quality (My best stamp job yet!) I'm guessing that I should tape over the stamp and sand down like you suggested Kurt. Is that about right?

[KurtHuhn]

Personally I would sand it back, redo the stain, and re-stamp it. Assuming that you're going to change colors anyway. If you don't sand that one area, it's going to look very different from the rest of the pipe.

[Briarfox]

Personally I would sand it back, redo the stain, and re-stamp it. Assuming that you're going to change colors anyway. If you don't sand that one area, it's going to look very different from the rest of the pipe.

Suppose you are right, thanks Kurt

[SimeonTurner]

Nothing worse in the world than having to sand a stamp out.....it's like the pipe was DONE...and then it wasn't.

Good luck!

[RadDavis]

If you steam the stamping real well before starting, you'll have a lot less sanding to do.

Rad

[KurtHuhn]

Thank, Rad. I forgot to mention that - search the forum for the threads on using a soldering iron to steam out dents and nicks from buffer incidents.

[Briarfox]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate the steam tip. I never considered it. I'll give it a go in the shop tomorrow.