interchangable dual stems
interchangable dual stems
I am about to make a pipe for a friend of mine and I wanted to make a pipe with interchangable stems. As I am fairly new at this whole pipe making craft I'm am not quite sure the best way to go about this. In the past while making a pipe the stem does not leave the stummel while shaping and sanding the pipe to get the fit just perfect. obviously I can't do that if I'm going to have two stems. Any ideas? Tips? I am in need of help.
Bear, I'm not real experienced with this, but I see two obvious methods. First, do like Stanwell, and make a pipe that doesn't have a flush stem to shank joint. They put a metal cap on the end of the Hans Christian Anderson pipes, and the interchangeable stems don't have to be the same diamater (except the tenon of course) or anything. Variations of this theme would include any of the "plug-in" style danish freehand stems, where the only issue is once again the diameter of the tenon.
The other way to to it is to keep the pipe really really round, and do most of your shaping on the lathe. Cut two stems that fit the mortise. Then you can do most of the work with one stem in, and then switch out every once in awhile and do finer and finer sandings and swith each time. It's not as hard as it sounds - you are actually doing a "successive approximations" sort of method, and with enough switches and a gentle hand, it comes out fine. The whole time, you are focused on making the stem the shape of the briar and not altering the briar (as much as possible).
It's a bit finicky but certainly do-able.
The other way to to it is to keep the pipe really really round, and do most of your shaping on the lathe. Cut two stems that fit the mortise. Then you can do most of the work with one stem in, and then switch out every once in awhile and do finer and finer sandings and swith each time. It's not as hard as it sounds - you are actually doing a "successive approximations" sort of method, and with enough switches and a gentle hand, it comes out fine. The whole time, you are focused on making the stem the shape of the briar and not altering the briar (as much as possible).
It's a bit finicky but certainly do-able.
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KurtHuhn
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One of my biggest requests is for pipes that have both churchwarden length stems, as well as shorter stems. Usually the customer is looking for something to smoke while at home, as well as in the car or otherwise out and about.Sasquatch wrote:The other way to to it is to keep the pipe really really round, and do most of your shaping on the lathe. Cut two stems that fit the mortise. Then you can do most of the work with one stem in, and then switch out every once in awhile and do finer and finer sandings and swith each time. It's not as hard as it sounds - you are actually doing a "successive approximations" sort of method, and with enough switches and a gentle hand, it comes out fine. The whole time, you are focused on making the stem the shape of the briar and not altering the briar (as much as possible).
The method outlined above is exactly the method I use. I shape the first 1/8 to 3/16 of the shank (or more, if it's a straight pipe), on the lathe to establish round within a hair of final dimensions. Then it's just a matter of being fiddly with the stems and swapping them out - as well as using a very light hand to be sure you don't go out of round or remove to much material.