Mortise Drill Bit & Shank-End Square
Mortise Drill Bit & Shank-End Square
Anyone useing the "Combination Mortise Drill Bit & Shank-End Square" from Pimo. I am having trouble getting the stems to fit right. Any ideas????
- KurtHuhn
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I no idea what whum-jawed is, and I can't offer too much. However, I can point you at http://www.bitsnbores.com for other combo options. That particular tool from PIMO is a Fuller Counterbore on a 5/16" bit. While it works acceptably well, you need to make sure the set screws on the counterbore are *tight* - otherwise you get wobble.
Also, if the counterbore is off perpendicular with the bit, try loosening those set screws, removing the counterbore from the bit, and clearing any stuff that may have gotten in under there.
Also, after you face/drill the mortis, make sure you countersink that hole so that the bevel on the stem has somewhere to set.
What some people have been doing is using a forstner bit to face the shank, then a drill bit to make the mortis. There are other methods as a well. I actually use a 1-1/4" fuller counterbore with a 5/16" drill bit, and have not had the issues you indicate. However, I bought mine from bitsnbores.com - though I doubt that makes too much of a difference.
Also, if the counterbore is off perpendicular with the bit, try loosening those set screws, removing the counterbore from the bit, and clearing any stuff that may have gotten in under there.
Also, after you face/drill the mortis, make sure you countersink that hole so that the bevel on the stem has somewhere to set.
What some people have been doing is using a forstner bit to face the shank, then a drill bit to make the mortis. There are other methods as a well. I actually use a 1-1/4" fuller counterbore with a 5/16" drill bit, and have not had the issues you indicate. However, I bought mine from bitsnbores.com - though I doubt that makes too much of a difference.
this is the method I have used and works great every time so far. I wonder if its the stem thats off not the shank. are you using the tenon turner from pimo? if so maybe thats not adjusted correctly.(just a thought)What some people have been doing is using a forstner bit to face the shank, then a drill bit to make the mortis.
John Harms
http://www.jthpipes.com
http://www.jthpipes.com
- KurtHuhn
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Ah, yeah! I agree, that could very well be the problem - especially if you're using molded stems. The manufactured stems are difficult to get square because there's no way to grip it down it's entire length to ensure that the PIMO tenon tool is going exactly along the stem's lengthwise axis.
Hmmm....
Hmmm....
- achduliebe
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Having only one pipe under my belt...I am by no means an authority on the subject, but I would probably suggest looking at the shoulder of the stem also as the culprit. Pull out the good ole needle files and try to work down the suspect area of the shoulder. Lacking superior tools I had to totally do my tenon on my first pipe with a file.
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
www.quinnpipes.com
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
www.quinnpipes.com
Thanks guys for all the suggestion. I check both Pimo tools, and they both seem right. However I was still having the problem. So I took Kurt's idea of the "forstner" bit, and that did the trick. The face of the stem & the face of the shank "now" fit tighter than a fat boy's bicycles pants. Still a lot to do on it, but will post when I finnish, it's made of Koa wood.
Take a very close look at your tool. I have seen one that another pipe maker bought and it is not square (cutting face is not a perfect 90 degree angle to the drill bit). He bought another, slightly larger diameter model (I do not remember the item number) that was square, and he uses this one all the time and gets great results. If I can find my notebook, I will post the model number and manufacturer of the newer tool he got. (I think it is the same manufacturer as the model Pimo supplies, but slightly larger face with a 5/16 hole to fit onto a drill bit).
- KurtHuhn
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You can find all sizes of the tool here:
http://www.bitsnbores.com/cgi-bin/cart/ ... rch=Mi0030
FWIW: these guys are great - fast delivery, and extremely helpful. Plus, they're in my adopted home state of Rhode Island!
http://www.bitsnbores.com/cgi-bin/cart/ ... rch=Mi0030
FWIW: these guys are great - fast delivery, and extremely helpful. Plus, they're in my adopted home state of Rhode Island!
As mentioned earlier, a forstner bit works really well here. I would recommend getting one that is about 1.5 inches diameter because it can be used to smooth the top of the chamber as well. The key to using the forstner is to not move the block until you have used both the forstner and the drill bit. When done this way, I end up with perfect 90 degree angles every time. I own one of the Pimo tools and used it for about three pipes but like the forstner MUCH better.
Stephen
Carving Pipes in the Oldest Town in Texas.
Carving Pipes in the Oldest Town in Texas.
Thanks whitebar'
"I would recommend getting one that is about 1.5 inches diameter because it can be used to smooth the top of the chamber as well."
Great idea, had not thought about that. Just been sanding the devel out of the top of the chamber. I used a 1'' but think I have a 1.5 around someplace.
"I would recommend getting one that is about 1.5 inches diameter because it can be used to smooth the top of the chamber as well."
Great idea, had not thought about that. Just been sanding the devel out of the top of the chamber. I used a 1'' but think I have a 1.5 around someplace.
- KurtHuhn
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The company is W.L. Fuller:JMB wrote:Do know a web site for Fuller or the full name for the company.
http://www.wlfuller.com
You can order their entire line from Bits-n-bores:
http://www.bitsnbores.com