As always, your critique is welcomed and encouraged. You guys are making me better with each offering.
Nine
Nine
Here's a tadpole-ish little pipe I made last week. I’m trying to be more sensitive to the grain structure in my pipes and this little piece of Rhode Island ebauchon didn’t give me much to work with when I laid it out. It has a smallish (3/4” dia) tobacco chamber and an OAL of about 5 ½”. It’d be a great ladies pipe. Maybe I can convince my wife to take up the hobby.
As always, your critique is welcomed and encouraged. You guys are making me better with each offering.
As always, your critique is welcomed and encouraged. You guys are making me better with each offering.
Last edited by FredS on Thu Mar 19, 2009 12:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Cut your own wood and you warm yourself twice." - Henry Ford
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Paddington
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:09 am
Fred, that's looking good, I agree. The only thing that really jumps out to my eyes is the mouthpiece. It looks pretty heavy duty for a rather small pipe. Now, I do prefer a pretty large bit on certain heavily bent larger pipes, but a smaller, straighter pipe like this would probably benefit from shaving that thing down to maybe half of what it is now, in terms of height. But that's a very personal thing, and if you are leaving it large intentionally, I wouldn't moan.
Rather, what that looks like to me is a preformed stem that didn't get much attention, so it still looks like a preformed stem, yaknowwhadImean?
It sort of looks like the bowl shape is out of round at the bottom, where the stem meets. That area could be flatter and more in tune with the rest of the bowl, I guess?
Do you charge extra for the birdseye in the bottom of the bowl?
Rather, what that looks like to me is a preformed stem that didn't get much attention, so it still looks like a preformed stem, yaknowwhadImean?
It sort of looks like the bowl shape is out of round at the bottom, where the stem meets. That area could be flatter and more in tune with the rest of the bowl, I guess?
Do you charge extra for the birdseye in the bottom of the bowl?
Hi Fred.
Here is what I see.
In both side shots i see that at the shank/bowl junction, on the bottom, the bowl has a very straight angle into the transition. It should be round to compliment the flow of the bowl. I like the long shank, but you have a very slight flare on the way to the stem, and then it tapers back down the other way at the stem (might just be the top line), i think you want the flare to continue through saddle. The bottom of the bowl has the shape of a 'squat apple' but the top has a more elongated look- to me, they appear to contradict each other. Is your stem a pre-molded one? I ask because it has the dimensions of a premolded stem- namely that the taper is too long. In fact, the taper is so long I'm not sure I've seen a pre-molded with a saddle that long. I think it would look better with a saddle about 1/2 that size. I would also make the shank with a bit more of a curve, only because your bowl is all curve and the shank being that straight sort of catches my eye.
Its not a bad 9th pipe tho... you incorporate several good aspects to a pipe of that sort.
Here is what I see.
In both side shots i see that at the shank/bowl junction, on the bottom, the bowl has a very straight angle into the transition. It should be round to compliment the flow of the bowl. I like the long shank, but you have a very slight flare on the way to the stem, and then it tapers back down the other way at the stem (might just be the top line), i think you want the flare to continue through saddle. The bottom of the bowl has the shape of a 'squat apple' but the top has a more elongated look- to me, they appear to contradict each other. Is your stem a pre-molded one? I ask because it has the dimensions of a premolded stem- namely that the taper is too long. In fact, the taper is so long I'm not sure I've seen a pre-molded with a saddle that long. I think it would look better with a saddle about 1/2 that size. I would also make the shank with a bit more of a curve, only because your bowl is all curve and the shank being that straight sort of catches my eye.
Its not a bad 9th pipe tho... you incorporate several good aspects to a pipe of that sort.
OK - This pipe went back to the shop for some tweaking based on the above input.
Shortened the saddle portion of the stem.
Thinned down the taper section of the stem, but left the bit the same size.
Just for kicks I threw in a white spacer.
Continued the shank taper all the way through the saddle.
Reshaped the bottom of the bowl.
Shortened the saddle portion of the stem.
Thinned down the taper section of the stem, but left the bit the same size.
Just for kicks I threw in a white spacer.
Continued the shank taper all the way through the saddle.
Reshaped the bottom of the bowl.
"Cut your own wood and you warm yourself twice." - Henry Ford
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KurtHuhn
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Wow, it's like a completely different pipe! Nice job!
I don't actually have to much to mention on the rework. The shank/bowl transition could get a little tighter, but that's about it.
One thing that I see a lot on long shanked pipes like this is that the shank actually has a curve to it. It's difficult to pull off, but I've seen some pipes from lots of makers with a looong shank with a graceful curve. It's one of those things that adds an extra level of "togetherness" to a pipe.
I don't actually have to much to mention on the rework. The shank/bowl transition could get a little tighter, but that's about it.
One thing that I see a lot on long shanked pipes like this is that the shank actually has a curve to it. It's difficult to pull off, but I've seen some pipes from lots of makers with a looong shank with a graceful curve. It's one of those things that adds an extra level of "togetherness" to a pipe.
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ToddJohnson
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Once you're able to make pretty pipes consistently, I think a good rule of thumb to adopt is that straight shanks are for straight pipes. If you disagree, please don't e-mail me. I'm just puttin' it out there as a helpful hint that will likely give your pipes greater visual appeal.KurtHuhn wrote: One thing that I see a lot on long shanked pipes like this is that the shank actually has a curve to it. It's difficult to pull off, but I've seen some pipes from lots of makers with a looong shank with a graceful curve. It's one of those things that adds an extra level of "togetherness" to a pipe.
Todd
Can we email you if we agree?ToddJohnson wrote:
Once you're able to make pretty pipes consistently, I think a good rule of thumb to adopt is that straight shanks are for straight pipes. If you disagree, please don't e-mail me. I'm just puttin' it out there as a helpful hint that will likely give your pipes greater visual appeal.
Todd
Rad
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KurtHuhn
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I think it's a good rule of thumb to adopt even when you're just starting out.ToddJohnson wrote: Once you're able to make pretty pipes consistently, I think a good rule of thumb to adopt is that straight shanks are for straight pipes. If you disagree, please don't e-mail me. I'm just puttin' it out there as a helpful hint that will likely give your pipes greater visual appeal.
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ToddJohnson
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- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
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No, my spam filter blocks all e-mail from Alabama.RadDavis wrote:Can we email you if we agree?ToddJohnson wrote:
Once you're able to make pretty pipes consistently, I think a good rule of thumb to adopt is that straight shanks are for straight pipes. If you disagree, please don't e-mail me. I'm just puttin' it out there as a helpful hint that will likely give your pipes greater visual appeal.
Todd
Rad
Sorry,
Todd