I have tried to remove deep bite marks with sand paper of different sand grades and then used compound buffing to clean up area and stem.
I notice when the bite mark is too deep and can't be removed entirely with the above process a drop of clear epoxy on the bite mark and allowed to dry for a day, covers the bite mark. Then I have lightly sanded the epoxy level with the stem and compound and wax polished it with very good results... The bite mark area is far away from the heat of the tobacco and seems to hold firmly. Any experience from others on this subject?
Thanks, Patrick
Ref... stem repair of too deep bite marks...
You can lightly heat the stem where the bite mark is, then go in to the inside of the stem with a thin file or any thing flat and rigid and try to push out the divot.
Flame, steam, boiling water, or heat gun the all work about the same.
Use what your comfortable with.
Ryan
R Quagliata Pipes
http://www.rquagliatapipes.com/
Flame, steam, boiling water, or heat gun the all work about the same.
Use what your comfortable with.
Ryan
R Quagliata Pipes
http://www.rquagliatapipes.com/
Re: Ref... stem repair of too deep bite marks...
A smidgen of powdered black pigment added to the epoxy helps to make it less visible.Patrick wrote:.... a drop of clear epoxy on the bite mark and allowed to dry for a day, covers the bite mark.
Regards,
Frank.
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Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
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jim in Oregon
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:33 am
- Location: Oregon, wetside
As said above, the bad dints from a toothcan be reversed with a bit of thought.
It is important to make up some small tools of steel which will fit thru the button funnel into the smoke passage..but that's not it.The tool will have a very short 'ell' on the end with a rounded and smoother end.
A coat hanger of proper diameter can work but better steel like a tiny screwdriver, modified, will last longer.
The tool is inserted into the stem with the 'ell' end flastwise in the funnel after determining how far in and where the dint is..and of course, heating the stem carefully with hot water a heat gun etc.
Once the tool is inserted flatwise, it is then gently rotated so the tiny 'ell' on the end lifts the stem dint back up at least clsoe to flush with the priginal outside contour.
Allow to cool or quench under cold water, buff things up a bit and apply a dab of olve oil..
For those who wish to protect their stem end from their own teeth, there are softy rubber bit covers avaailable..A cheaper solution is appropriately sized 3:1 shrink tubing in black, cut to a 3/8-1/2" length.
A 8" piece which will doo quite a few pipes costs less than 1.00 at most good hardware stores or electrical supply places.Jim
It is important to make up some small tools of steel which will fit thru the button funnel into the smoke passage..but that's not it.The tool will have a very short 'ell' on the end with a rounded and smoother end.
A coat hanger of proper diameter can work but better steel like a tiny screwdriver, modified, will last longer.
The tool is inserted into the stem with the 'ell' end flastwise in the funnel after determining how far in and where the dint is..and of course, heating the stem carefully with hot water a heat gun etc.
Once the tool is inserted flatwise, it is then gently rotated so the tiny 'ell' on the end lifts the stem dint back up at least clsoe to flush with the priginal outside contour.
Allow to cool or quench under cold water, buff things up a bit and apply a dab of olve oil..
For those who wish to protect their stem end from their own teeth, there are softy rubber bit covers avaailable..A cheaper solution is appropriately sized 3:1 shrink tubing in black, cut to a 3/8-1/2" length.
A 8" piece which will doo quite a few pipes costs less than 1.00 at most good hardware stores or electrical supply places.Jim
I'm sure Softies work very well, but there are a couple of disadvantages. They increase the thickness of the bite one is accustomed to and they have a very different mouth/tooth feel to vulcanite/ebonite. Instead, I just told myself not to chew the stem and for once in my life I actually took my own advice.jim in Oregon wrote:For those who wish to protect their stem end from their own teeth, there are softy rubber bit covers available. A cheaper solution is appropriately sized 3:1 shrink tubing in black, cut to a 3/8-1/2" length.
A 8" piece which will do quite a few pipes costs less than 1.00 at most good hardware stores or electrical supply places.Jim
Regards,
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
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KurtHuhn
- Site Admin
- Posts: 5326
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: United States/Rhode Island
Vulcanite/ebonite, as with most hard rubbers and a lot of other plastics, has a "memory" and will want to return to its as-vulcanized shape whenever possible. You may find that simply heating the stem to bending temp will allow the vulcanite to relax enough to pop out the dent. No special tools really needed.
I did this once one an old Kaywoodie that was owned by a chewer. The stem was so full of dents that the airway effectively closed. After application of the heat gun, everything opened right up and the outside of the stem was ready for 600-grit paper.
I did this once one an old Kaywoodie that was owned by a chewer. The stem was so full of dents that the airway effectively closed. After application of the heat gun, everything opened right up and the outside of the stem was ready for 600-grit paper.