What do you sand to, grit wise?
Quick question here. What do you all sand to, grit wize? I've been going to 2000 grit, and am pretty happy with it, but I just wonder if there isn't a finer grit I could be using?
Additionally, how long do you all spend per grit? For example, I seem to spend a good deal of time at the 150 grit, getting out all the sanding marks from the ol' sander. But I spend less time with some of the tiner grits.
Additionally, how long do you all spend per grit? For example, I seem to spend a good deal of time at the 150 grit, getting out all the sanding marks from the ol' sander. But I spend less time with some of the tiner grits.
- Tyler
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I go to 800. I know lots of uber-makers that only go to 600. With proper buffing and finishing, 600 is smooth enough for a pristine finish.
I used to go to a bazillion grit using micromesh, but I have found that it was a waste of time. Ironically, I now get a better finish with much lower grit. Not because of the grit, but because I have gotten better at finishing.
Tyler
P.S. Nick, I hope you don't mind that I split this question off into its own thread. This is a good question and I didn't want it hidden at the bottom of that old thread.
I used to go to a bazillion grit using micromesh, but I have found that it was a waste of time. Ironically, I now get a better finish with much lower grit. Not because of the grit, but because I have gotten better at finishing.
Tyler
P.S. Nick, I hope you don't mind that I split this question off into its own thread. This is a good question and I didn't want it hidden at the bottom of that old thread.
Tyler Lane Pipes
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- KurtHuhn
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I sand to 400 using paper, then use 1500 MicroMesh. That's not as fine as it sounds, since the 1500 Micromesh is actually slightly more coarse than 600-grit paper - just above 400-grit paper. I just like to use the MicroMesh because it forms itself to the shape of the stummel and it's extremely flexible to you can get into tight areas very easily. After that, I usually go to 1800 MicroMesh, then 2400 Micromesh - which is roughly equal to 800-grit paper if I recall correctly.
I wish there was some MicroMesh that was equal to 320 grit, but I can't find such a thing anywhere.
I wish there was some MicroMesh that was equal to 320 grit, but I can't find such a thing anywhere.
I have found that I can get a mark free finish with 600 grit( occasionaly I will go to 800).
The real workhorses for me is 150, 220 and 320. I have found that by being carefull enough at these stages, and not moving up a grit until all marks from the previous grits are gone, that 800+ is usually not needed.
I also stain after 400 and resand with the same. This also lets me see if there are any marks left before going to 600 then tripoli buff.
The real workhorses for me is 150, 220 and 320. I have found that by being carefull enough at these stages, and not moving up a grit until all marks from the previous grits are gone, that 800+ is usually not needed.
I also stain after 400 and resand with the same. This also lets me see if there are any marks left before going to 600 then tripoli buff.
John
www.crosbypipes.com
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- KurtHuhn
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To respond to myself:
I went and did some digging, and found that the company that makes Micromesh *does* make coarser grades. Just look at their products page at their website:
https://www.micro-surface.com
What you're looking for is MicroMesh MX - it comes in sheets or rolls. I'm heaven, and my credit card is on the way out of my wallet.
I went and did some digging, and found that the company that makes Micromesh *does* make coarser grades. Just look at their products page at their website:
https://www.micro-surface.com
What you're looking for is MicroMesh MX - it comes in sheets or rolls. I'm heaven, and my credit card is on the way out of my wallet.
I mainly sand until 600. Sometimes up to 1500, but I haven't noticed a substantial difference between them. Most of the big name artisans I've talked to only go to 600. There are of course a few who are especially anal about it (e.g. sanding/buffing FAQ on ASP), but I don't see any reason to go beyond 600.
Jeff
Jeff
- ToddJohnson
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I sand to 600 (though it's always a worn-out piece). When the pipe comes off the wheel/belt, all the sanding marks from the 36 grit shaping wheel have been removed. I'll either start sanding with 320 grit or with 220 if it's a really difficult shape where I havent' been able to get to certain contours with the wheel. I spend no more than 45 mins. on each grit I suppose, though longer on the 400, 400, 600 combo where I'm staining the pipe. BTW, it helps to dip the stummell in water after each grit to raise the grain. This helps to get any "scratches" out of the pipe that are really just deep impressions in the wood.Nick wrote:Quick question here. What do you all sand to, grit wize? I've been going to 2000 grit, and am pretty happy with it, but I just wonder if there isn't a finer grit I could be using?
Additionally, how long do you all spend per grit? For example, I seem to spend a good deal of time at the 150 grit, getting out all the sanding marks from the ol' sander. But I spend less time with some of the tiner grits.
Best,
Todd
- abbeypipes
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grit
I sand to 400 sometimes 600 I use very fine wire wool depending on the pipe and my mood
- Tyler
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I don't know that my procedures are much different than they were when I first began, but my skill at them is better. I am better at sanding uniformly, better at buffing consistently, and etc.
I have actually found my current finishing methods to maintain its shine MUCH longer than my old way when going to a very high grit. Why? There IS one addition to my procedure over the way I did it at first: the "s-word". Just the very thin coat makes the surface very uniform and much more polish ready. It also protects the stain from buffing away.
Tyler
I have actually found my current finishing methods to maintain its shine MUCH longer than my old way when going to a very high grit. Why? There IS one addition to my procedure over the way I did it at first: the "s-word". Just the very thin coat makes the surface very uniform and much more polish ready. It also protects the stain from buffing away.
Tyler
Tyler Lane Pipes
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http://www.tylerlanepipes.com