First attempt

[pennsyscot]

This is my first effort at pipemaking. I am aware that the pipe has many flaws. The pipe is not yet finished. I've sanded to 600 grit and stained, but still can go back and correct flaws. However, I'm hesitant to do so, because the more I try to fix the more I seem to screw it up. The stem is an atrocity, but I don't think anymore can be done for it. This is actually the third stem I've made, as I've destroyed two others trying to make the tenon. The button is the worst part. The airway is much larger than I intended because I hogged it out in an effort to repair my mistakes. Because of the large dimension of the airway, I'm afraid to go thinner with the stem. The stem is .195" behind the button. How far is this beyond the acceptable range? The stummle has some sand pits which I've filled with a Black shellac stick. This does not disguise thier presence, but leaves a smooth surface. Is there some taboo against using fillers? Is shellac a good fill material? The tabbacco chamber appears to be slightly off center. I think this is because the drill wandered slightly on entrance. The chamber and the stummel are not on the same axis. I should have probably used ebonite or cumberland to make the stem, but I wanted to work with the cheapest material available. I'm not pleased with the color. I have not yet purchased supplies for finishing. Should I use tripoli or just go straight to the white compound? What about Danish oil? I may put my name and date on the shank (as a measure of future improvement). What type of rotary tool bit to scribe a name? What about precarbing? Where can I find online tutorials on how to do that? Any advice offered will be greatly appreciated. Please be honest In your criticism. Thanjs, Scot

[kkendall]

Great job for a first go at it! (great job even if it was your 5th)
Keep it up!

[pierredekat]

First, this pipe is very nice for a first effort. Much better than my first effort, which was basically an unfired clay bowl with a plastic straw shoved in it. But hey, I was like 12 at the time, okay.

The stem is an atrocity, but I don't think anymore can be done for it. This is actually the third stem I've made, as I've destroyed two others trying to make the tenon. The button is the worst part. The airway is much larger than I intended because I hogged it out in an effort to repair my mistakes. Because of the large dimension of the airway, I'm afraid to go thinner with the stem. The stem is .195" behind the button. How far is this beyond the acceptable range?

I'm guessing this is a pipe that you're not planning on selling, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. You've probably learned a lot in the process, and you can apply that knowledge you have gained on the next pipe. Just enjoy it.

The stummle has some sand pits which I've filled with a Black shellac stick. This does not disguise thier presence, but leaves a smooth surface. Is there some taboo against using fillers?

Depends on whom you ask. I don't think that many of the top-tier pipemakers use fills, but some of the middle-rung guys do. And almost all "factory" pipemakers use fills, with a few exceptions.

I think, ultimately that each pipemaker has to reach his own conclusions on fills: if, when, do you disclose it, and so on. But do keep in mind that fills are generally frowned on by the real pipe connoisseurs, especially if they have shelled out anything over about $100 for a particular pipe.

Is shellac a good fill material?

About as good as anything, I think. It will dissolve in alcohol. But it's natural, which is a plus.

Should I use tripoli or just go straight to the white compound?

If you're going for a glossy finish, I think you'll definitely want to work your way up to around 1000 grit sandpaper, then do tripoli, then white compound, then carnauba.

If you use the search function, I believe Kurt has a good tutorial somewhere on here.

Any advice offered will be greatly appreciated.

Keep up the good work. Learn what you can from each pipe. And don't forget to enjoy what you're doing.

[sethile]

Wow, Scot. I think this is a remarkable first pipe! It's a challenging shape, and you've pulled it off very well. Making a handcut stem right out of the shoot is wonderful, and I'd say your off to a fantastic start with it. My first bulldog was my 12th pipe, and I like yours much better!

Yes, .195" is a bit thick for behind the bit. I think many of us are looking for around .15". Mine mostly end up between .147 and .155, depending on the size of the pipe, and how well I've managed on the slot (and how brave I feel at the time . But even attempting a hand cut stem on your first pipe is great, and it would appear you have pulled it off remarkably!

Fills are a touchy business right now, and something you'll need to decide about on your own if and when you decide to offer them for sale. Until then, whatever you prefer is great! I think shellac is excellent material for pipe finishing. I use it on my sandblasts and rusticated pipes, but I don't use it or anything else for fills.

For smooths I sand to 600 grit before staining, and between stains (I'f staining more than once). Then after I wipe with alcohol (and it drys) I use a tan tripoli, then white diamond, then Carnuba. I have some red tripoli I'll use on occasion before the tan, but generally find it's more or less redundant with where I get with the 600 grit sandpaper.

With this nice a first effort I'm guessing you must be bringing some considerable skills and a good eye to this from other activities.

I'm looking forward to seeing more of your work!

[pennsyscot]

Thanks for the comments. It is thrilling to hear from such skilled artisans. I have been making furniture for a few years, and have been very pleased with Watco Danish Oil. I was thinking about a built up Danish oil finish. Is this an apropriate finish for a pipe? Would it affect it's smoking properties? Does anyone else use it? I was thinking maybe three coats and then buff with tripoli and white. From my experience with woodworking, I've found that penetrating oils enhance the definition of grain, depth, and reflective properties. So If you think this is a bad idea please let me know, or if you have any finishing suggestions I would appreciate them. Maybe just the wax, but some of these beautiful pipes I see on here look like they have more than wax. Thanks everyone, for being so helpful, Scot

[sethile]

....I have been making furniture for a few years, and have been very pleased with Watco Danish Oil. I was thinking about a built up Danish oil finish. Is this an apropriate finish for a pipe? Would it affect it's smoking properties? Does anyone else use it? ....

Ah, not a bit surprised to hear about your furniture making. I've played around with wood in one way or another for a long while, and dabbled in furniture making. In terms of the Watco Danish oil finish, well that's another controversy you'll have to sort out and decide for yourself. You will find respected pipe makers on both sides of the issue of how much finish and what sorts are appropriate on which pipes. Many collectors feel that the briar needs to breath and anything other than wax will reduce that, thus effect the smoking characteristics. Others think that's absolute bunk, and use sanding sealers, lacquers, oils, you name it!

I'm not sure what's in the Watco Danish oil finish, but it's likely comparable to what some pipe makers use successfully. I've found that I like to use just shellac, and a thin coat at that, for my blasts and rusticated pipes, and just Carnuba on the smooths. But that's just me--I highly respect some of the makers using all of the above, and your procedure sounds like it would work great! Give it a try, snap some pics for us, and then see how it smokes and report back!

[ckr]

I think it is an excellant effort for your first and also that since you are so critical of your work it is bound to improve very quickly. Stems of lucite or cast acrylic I think are more difficult to work than ebonite or cumberland but you are right in thinking if you are going to screw up it is cheaper.

I like the composition, for me the stem works with the color of the pipe and I feel they complement each other.

This is what I see that I would consider improvements. From the shot looking down at the bottom of the bowl. I think the taper of the shank meeting the bowl is too ?creased?. I would tighten it up, let the line of the stem flow straight on to the shank before it flares to the bowl. Also work the stem and shank together it appears they have some rounding on the edges where the two meet. A clean and seamless transition from stem to shank is suppose to be a good thing.

After 600, I continue with 800 and 1200 and I think it makes a difference in the finish on a smooth. I have used danish oil but I do not think it compares to a thinned shellac and carnuba finish in shine. The oil was more satinish but also more durable.

While some can spring for a $$pantograph$$ for scribing most buy a stamp, I fall with the later group.

Again, good work.

[wdteipen]

I agree. That is a very nice first attempt. And a very adventurous shape right out of the gate. Nice work.

[Nick]

No too shabby at all! Great first pipe I'd say.

[Charl]

Great first one! And not an easy shape either.

Congratulations on choosing the best hobby in the world. Somewhere I read that you don't get pipemakers who are addicted to nicotine, only pipemakers addicted to pipemaking! Although, in my case it's a close call!

Enjoy and good luck! Just waiting for number 2 now!

[pennsyscot]

ckr, you are spot on with your remark about the stem shank transition. I had a lot of difficulty because the lucite is so much softer than briar. I plan to focus alot of attention on this in the future. Maybe I should have shaped that area with a file. As for my Idea of using the danish oil, Its not a good one. The danish oil finish was very time consuming and did not produce a high gloss finish. thanks, Scot