Tool Set-Up

Bill the Conqueror · Post by **Bill the Conqueror** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:10 pm

So here's my basic question: What are the most important tools to buy, and in what order? More details below.

Thanks for the info on metal lathes. Now I'm slightly depressed - I was hoping to be able to sink less than $1000 and have a decent pipe-making set-up. (I realize I could buy files and sand paper for next to nothing... but that's not quite the approach I'm looking for.)

After the advice I received, I'm inclined to think that buying a metal lathe is not my best first investment. The only problem is, I currently have no (accurate) means of drilling stummels, turning tenons, etc. Should I just stick with pre-drilled blanks until I can afford the whole package? (BTW I'm about half way done with a blank that will turn out to be THE MOST ATROCIOUS looking 'pipe' you'll ever lay eyes on.) In that case, what are my best, economical tool options? Belt/Disc sander, band saw then metal lathe? Ideally, I was hoping to spend less than $800 on an initial set-up (pie in the sky?) - all thoughts are welcome.

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:41 pm

Hi Bill,

Since you are currently producing "THE MOST ATROCIOUS looking 'pipe' you'll ever lay eyes on", I would advise that you stick with a few pipe kits at first, until you get a feel for what you are doing and where you want to go with it.

The first thing you need is a good sanding/shaping setup, and then a buffing/finishing setup. These can be all in one where you change wheels/sanding disks for each application, so you don't have a big cash outlay. I got this from Grizzly:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Buffing-Assembly/H3559

Add a motor, sanding disks and buffs, and for around $200-250, you have a buffing and/or sanding setup. You'll also need a dust collection system, but that can be rigged up with a Shop Vac.

This would be all you need to make pipes from kits.

To make pipes from scratch, all you need to add is a drill press, band saw and some way to cut tenons on stems. To cut tenons, you'll need a metal lathe or a tenon cutter. If you go with a tenon cutter, I would recommend getting the one from Tim West:

http://www.jhlowe.com/machine_parts.htm

It's expensive, but much more accurate than the one from Pimo. A Taig Micro Lathe is also an option and in that same price range.

If you go with delrin tenons, then you'll need at least a wood lathe to drill and face stems to insert them.

Hope this helps.

Rad

LatakiaLover · Post by **LatakiaLover** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:51 pm

Bill,

A difficult thing to keep in mind when at the phase you describe is that cheap tools end up costing more. They don't do the job, and then must be replaced with what you should have bought to begin with... so when you finally get where you want to be, you're out the cost of the cheap tool and the unsat work in addition to the good tool's cost.

I'm not saying to start out with Swiss-made files, handcut rasps, and Ken Lamb chucks. Rather, to avoid clearance table junk at the hardware store.

The guys here can tell you where the best bang-for-the-buck is. You'll be doing yourself a favor by following their recommendations, and saving a bit longer if all you need isn't possible on your present budget.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 7:54 pm

I was going to post a reply here, but instead I made a stick post in the General forum.

viewtopic.php?t=2808

This is not a list of what to buy, but rather an article of different tools and their merits. It should be used as a starting point for thinking about what you want to use, and not as a The Pipe Tooling Gospel According To Kurt.

Bill the Conqueror · Post by **Bill the Conqueror** » Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:16 pm

KurtHuhn wrote:It should be used as a starting point for thinking about what you want to use, and not as a The Pipe Tooling Gospel According To Kurt.

Well, from what I've seen and read on the forum, I don't think a "Pipe Gospel According to Kurt (or Rad, or Tyler, or a dozen others)" would be a bad thing at all.

Thanks for the replies - very valuable information.

One specific question: Any thoughts on the Delta SA180 sander as a first/basic sander? Here's some basic info on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Delta-SA180-Shopm ... 130&sr=1-1

Rad posted some info on a buffer/sander, but I've got some parts that will allow me to piece together a decent buffer (I'll have to buy a sanding disc) - I'm more worried about a belt sander. Should I even be concerned with that? If so, does that Delta fit the bill? Thanks a lot - sorry for all the elementary questions.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Mon Dec 31, 2007 1:11 am

That sander/grinder works great for short saddle bits, and for putting the bevels on a small EDC-sized knife. The disc portion I don't use at all. For my workflow, it's undersized and slow for doing rough shaping. It is, however, a daily-use item in my workshop.

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Mon Dec 31, 2007 1:12 am

I have that very model, and I use the disk for squaring blocks, the belt for rough shaping stems.

I've never used a belt sander for shaping stummels, so I don't know if it would work on that model or not. Maybe some of the belt sander shaping guys would know.

Rad

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Mon Dec 31, 2007 9:22 am

What Rad said. I have the exact model and it's one of the workhorses in my little bitty shop. I have never used it to rough-shape stummels, but for squaring blocks and rough-shaping stems, it's a gem. YMMV.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Mon Dec 31, 2007 9:25 am

I suppose it could be done, but it would require patience. The belt speed is too slow for fast stock removal, in my opinion. It's best for fine tuning shapes and getting into tight spots that the big belt grinder can't get into. The movable platen is great for grinding in convex curves in some cases.

This little thing:
http://www.tricktools.com/multitool.htm
is what I use for rough shaping stummels and stems. I got mine attached to the big 8" grinder. That belt moves at over 5000 SFPM, so stock removal is *fast*. You definitely need to pay attention though, because an 80-grit belt will remove fingertips just as quickly as wood.