Motors

buster · Post by **buster** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 8:34 am

I notice that when I look at pipemakers workshops on their websites a lot of them have dedicated sanding motors. Where do you guys get those and what are the specs on them ? I was thinking of using my lathe but when you turn it to face you the whole bed of the lathe is in the way and then I would have to turn it back to do any turning or anything else.
Thank You

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:42 am

You can use the lathe without moving it all around. It's not that terribly difficult to work from the side once you get comfortable with it. If you've looked at all at Tyler Beard's video tutorials on shaping, you'll see he's shaping a pipe this way. I will say, however, that using a dedicated motor, for me, is more comfortable.

I believe if you look up the ebay seller wesbestbuy you'll be able to find what you're looking for. His, I believe, are Baldor 1725rpm motors with a 5/8" shaft. They can also be found on amazon.com and other places, but this guy has great prices.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 10:55 am

I agree with Hazmat. The motors that that the seller has are 1/3 HP Baldor motors, and are excellent quality. I have one setup for shaping, and a few more running various homebrew machines. Great motors.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 12:21 pm

Kurt.. when you initially set yours up, what did you do to keep vibration down to a tolerable level? The one I'm using is not a Baldor from the ebay guy(one's on the way though... wooohoooo!!!) but it's damn similar. I have it mounted directly to a pretty sturdy work suface, but it vibrates the bejeezus out of the thing and "stuff" keeps riding right off and falling on the floor. Any suggestions? I'm wondering a bit if shortening the mandrel I have on the shaft would help. There's a good 1" of threaded stock between the chuck and the housing that mounts on the shaft.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 12:44 pm

I actually didn't have to do anything. The Baldors run silky smooth, even with a crappy off-center Jacobs chuck on them. Sounds to me like the armature isn't balanced or something. What brand is it?

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 1:33 pm

It's a Marathon 1725 RPM 1/4 HP motor. The more I think about it, the more I'm wondering if it's not the work area, as solid as it seems to me. I used to have my grinder mounted to it and it did the same thing, only worse due to the higher RPM. I just figured it was something I'd have to deal with, but since we were gabbing about motors here, I thought I'd ask. I'm going to be making some changes to my workshop after the new year, along with replacing that motor with the Baldor that's on the way, so that might work the situation out.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 1:39 pm

Buster... and anyone else who's looking.... wesbestbuy, for some reason, seems to have nothing left for sale. If this is the case, sorry for sending you in the wrong direction!!

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 2:22 pm

hazmat wrote:Kurt.. when you initially set yours up, what did you do to keep vibration down to a tolerable level? I have it mounted directly to a pretty sturdy work suface, but it vibrates the bejeezus out of the thing and "stuff" keeps riding right off and falling on the floor. Any suggestions? I'm wondering a bit if shortening the mandrel I have on the shaft would help. There's a good 1" of threaded stock between the chuck and the housing that mounts on the shaft.

The mandrel itself could be the problem. If the mandrel was added by you, it probably isn't balanced. Those add-on mandrels can horribly unbalance the motor shaft, especially if they're the cheapie kind I used to use. If that isn't the problem, then it's the motor itself.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 3:04 pm

So what are you using in place of the add-on mandrels? They're exactly what I'm using. Thing is, the motor runs fine. The shaft's not bouncing up and down and I don't feel the off-balance feel when I lay the wood to the discs. It just vibrates the hell out of the workstation.

JHowell · Post by **JHowell** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 3:12 pm

I always feel compelled to add a mention of the Delta low speed grinder. 1725 rpm, has shafts threaded already for 5/8-11 acme, which is what lots of body shop tooling uses. Handy switch, easy to bolt down, totally enclosed against dust and grit. If you buy or make your tooling to 5/8-11, you don't need a mandrel.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 3:34 pm

Jack.. I've seen you mention these in several other threads. What are we talking about cost-wise on these buggers? I never have trouble justifying reasons for buying new toys...er... tools

JHowell · Post by **JHowell** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:45 pm

For a while it seemed they were perpetually on sale for 89 or 99 bucks at Woodcraft. I don't know what they cost now, I expect not much more. I hate to recommend this, but the motor I use the most is a $60 1725 grinder from Harbor Freight. I've heard all kinds of horror stories about the flimsy junk inside seemingly solid motor casings, but mine has stood up to eight years of steady use.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:47 pm

Noted, Jack. I'll see what I can see over the holidays. Everyone needs to buy themselves a Christmas present, no?

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Thu Dec 20, 2007 8:11 pm

hazmat wrote:So what are you using in place of the add-on mandrels? They're exactly what I'm using.

After going through a couple of inexpensive general purpose utility motors I decided to buy a dedicated buffer. I don't use mandrels anymore, so I can't help there, sorry Matt.