http://cgi.ebay.com/logan-lathe-craftsm ... dZViewItem
Dirty, pickup only in Wisconsin. Last Model 200 I posted went for $510 -- not pocket change, but half the price of an import 9X20. This one should go pretty cheaply, unles the seller has a delusional reserve. Back gear is trashed, but a pipemaker will never, ever use it and that will keep the price down. May need a new motor, not a big expense.
Yet another Logan 10"
Holy shit. My folks are 20 minutes from Kenosha. This would be very doable for me.
John
www.crosbypipes.com
www.crosbypipes.com
Heh, heh, you do not know the power of the dark side. I should probably point out that dirty old machines, are, well dirty old machines. It takes a certain willingness to meet them on their own terms. I have vast, probably irrational enthusiasm for old lathes and the more abused and neglected a machine has been the more I want to save it. That said, some machines look worse than they are, and if one is cheap enough it can be both an economical alternative to a new import and a rewarding project. As reparation for luring anyone over the cliff with me I offer that I probably have enough spare parts to build a complete Logan 200 from the bed up.
-
KurtHuhn
- Site Admin
- Posts: 5326
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: United States/Rhode Island
Then this one ought to electrify your knickersJHowell wrote:I have vast, probably irrational enthusiasm for old lathes and the more abused and neglected a machine has been the more I want to save it.
:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0157717731
Yes, that's about the condition my 200 was in. The seller doesn't say what else is wrong with it or what parts, exactly, are missing. My guess is that he used the countershaft since the countershaft pulley is lying on the bed, but the Logan countershaft arrangement is kinda klunky anyway -- a countershaft from the Wards version would be better and you see those from time to time.
The spindle pulley is rusty, so it's been in the rain, so probably the bearings are seized. About $30 worth of bearings, changeable by anyone with access to a press and with a little bad language. The quick change gearbox is a plus, the aprons that went with the QC are very good, using a multiplate clutch in the feed mechanism that can save the machine from the kind of damage that my 200 sustained in the event of a crash. There are a hundred things that *could* be wrong, but if this lathe could be gotten for a hundred bucks . . . probably best in any event to get an exact list from the seller of what is there and what isn't.
The spindle pulley is rusty, so it's been in the rain, so probably the bearings are seized. About $30 worth of bearings, changeable by anyone with access to a press and with a little bad language. The quick change gearbox is a plus, the aprons that went with the QC are very good, using a multiplate clutch in the feed mechanism that can save the machine from the kind of damage that my 200 sustained in the event of a crash. There are a hundred things that *could* be wrong, but if this lathe could be gotten for a hundred bucks . . . probably best in any event to get an exact list from the seller of what is there and what isn't.
I'm not encouraging YOU, Kurt, I don't think you have room. If you think these things take space when they're together, try them in exploded view.
Might be worth finding out the condition of the bed and saddle. Here's what happens with these things. These aren't hardened ways. The lubrication is strictly dependent on the owner's diligence, and if abrasive dust or grit gets under the saddle the ways and saddle can wear pretty fast. The most wear occurs near the headstock, so if the saddle is adjusted to be just right there, it will be too tight hard to move toward the tailstock end. SO, you don't have to worry at all about being to hold .001" over a foot, if you can hold a couple thou over the length of a tenon you can make pipes, and the most worn-out lathe in the world will be able to do that. There are ways to check, but you have to be there -- if the owner bought this lathe for parts for another lathe he probably knows a thing or two about it and can tell you what the bed and saddle are like.
The best advice I can give you (and this is from Dennis, too) if you get a lathe like this is to go to the local Ace Hardware and order (if they don't stock it) a few cans of Mr. Muscle industrial oven cleaner. Take your cruddy, greasy, six-layers-of-chipped-painted piece outside in the evening (no rain) and spray it really well. In the morning, scrub with a wire brush (wear gloves) and spray the brown goo off with a hose. Dry the parts, and they're ready to paint. If you have rust, just bead blast. It's an amazing paint and crud stripper for metal.
Might be worth finding out the condition of the bed and saddle. Here's what happens with these things. These aren't hardened ways. The lubrication is strictly dependent on the owner's diligence, and if abrasive dust or grit gets under the saddle the ways and saddle can wear pretty fast. The most wear occurs near the headstock, so if the saddle is adjusted to be just right there, it will be too tight hard to move toward the tailstock end. SO, you don't have to worry at all about being to hold .001" over a foot, if you can hold a couple thou over the length of a tenon you can make pipes, and the most worn-out lathe in the world will be able to do that. There are ways to check, but you have to be there -- if the owner bought this lathe for parts for another lathe he probably knows a thing or two about it and can tell you what the bed and saddle are like.
The best advice I can give you (and this is from Dennis, too) if you get a lathe like this is to go to the local Ace Hardware and order (if they don't stock it) a few cans of Mr. Muscle industrial oven cleaner. Take your cruddy, greasy, six-layers-of-chipped-painted piece outside in the evening (no rain) and spray it really well. In the morning, scrub with a wire brush (wear gloves) and spray the brown goo off with a hose. Dry the parts, and they're ready to paint. If you have rust, just bead blast. It's an amazing paint and crud stripper for metal.
http://cgi.ebay.com/LOGAN-THREAD-CUTTIN ... dZViewItem
Yet ANOTHER Logan. Don't know who's near this one to have a look, but it's a very usable model. Clutch style power feed is nice. Under drive is nice. Cabinet is nice. 800-series headstocks are better than model 200s. Bed and screws might be worn, but the only thing I've found that has to be done with a worn-out lathe to make pipes is to shim the tailstock up to center.
Yet ANOTHER Logan. Don't know who's near this one to have a look, but it's a very usable model. Clutch style power feed is nice. Under drive is nice. Cabinet is nice. 800-series headstocks are better than model 200s. Bed and screws might be worn, but the only thing I've found that has to be done with a worn-out lathe to make pipes is to shim the tailstock up to center.