More pipe restem & refurb pics

[LatakiaLover]

The work order was:

1922 Peterson Deluxe billiard in Grp 3 size

-- Re-stem w/Lucite "smoking bit" so original can be stored
-- Standard button, profile not quite as "wedgey" so more comfortable
-- Open airway to maximum commensurate with pipe/stem size
-- Make new stem without touching the shank, both to preserve stamping, and to assure original stem will fit flush when re-inserted.
-- Remove 80 years of ashtray dings on rim as much as possible without topping bowl
-- Even out color (pipe was much darker on one side than the other)
-- Full Smoking Rejuvenation treatment

Here is the result:













Rim pics are because it's the first time I've had the chance to show one of my "briar whisperer" tricks. The bowl was NOT topped, but the dings are gone:

[TreverT]

Ye olde heated iron steaming?

Out of curiosity, how did you get the new stem to match without sanding it to the shank, assuming that the shank wasn't perfectly round to allow turning to size?

[RadDavis]

Out of curiosity, how did you get the new stem to match without sanding it to the shank, assuming that the shank wasn't perfectly round to allow turning to size?

Yeah, enquiring minds want to know!

That's a great looking refurb, LL.

Rad

[LatakiaLover]

Ye olde heated iron steaming?

Just a variation. A fry pan.

Heat about to the same temp you'd gently fry an egg, and toss a 2"x2" square of clean, doubled paper towel on it that's been touched in a saucer of distilled water next to the stove. It'll sizzle and steam for about 15 seconds before drying. Just keep applying the top of the pipe squarely to the towel with moderate pressure, about 2 seconds at a time. Quickly wipe the rim, eyeball, repeat. Re-wet the towel as needed.

The bowl will "grow" between 5 and 10 thou in total height, as well as greatly reducing the depth of any dents. Most of the time to a depth that's less than the height increase.

Then, if the bowl mics exactly the same as it started after being lapped on some 320/600, and all radii returned w/600, was it topped or not?

If topped means "shortened" (which is the functional definition if not the technical one, yes?), the answer is no.

Out of curiosity, how did you get the new stem to match without sanding it to the shank, assuming that the shank wasn't perfectly round to allow turning to size?

Nothing tricky there, just a steady hand and some freaky-thin (1.0 mil) mylar tape. I take it down to Scotch magic tape on a 320 French wheel, then to the mylar tape by hand with 400/600. When it is uniformly scuffed, you're there. Some of the final thou comes off when compounded, and whatever remains falls into the "doesn't matter, we're talkin' pipes here, not machine tool parts" bucket. Close enough for Things Kapnismological, in other words.

[LatakiaLover]

Here's some more pics---different pipe---where the "fry pan" trick was used:


A pre-war Loewe:





And what it measured (total bowl height 2mm in from bowl edge, clamped tight enough to hold the weight of the pipe):







After raising the top, and then lowering it again (so to speak)



The reason I didn't completely remove the dents is twofold. First, what you see is all that the wood would "give back" using repair tricks. Going farther would have required shortening the bowl---what's known as "topping" it---and few things look more obvious than an old, classically proportioned pipe with a topped bowl. Even a millimeter is surprisingly noticeable. Secondly, on a pipe whose finish is loaded with character---patina---the second most noticeable thing is an unnaturally flawless top, even when the proportions are right. To be invisible, restorations have to blend in in every respect. Which means the wear on the rim must match the condition of the finish everywhere else. In this case that means the expected density of "handling marks" for a well-cared-for 70-odd year old pipe.

Anyway, here's the bowl after the fix, measured in the same spot:


After the fix, measured in the same spot:





These pics are to show the color match as well as the finsh texture and shine matching:

[TreverT]

That's pretty slick! Haven't heard of the frying pan idea before - Most of the time it's some variation of using a damp towel and an iron to steam out the dents. Learn something new every day.

[ckr]

Thanks LL,

Some very interesting techniques on a different side of the hobby which to me requires as much skill and knowledge as making the things. I look forward to learning more from you and your craft.

Fume in pace, ckr

[TreverT]

Thanks LL,

Some very interesting techniques on a different side of the hobby which to me requires as much skill and knowledge as making the things. I look forward to learning more from you and your craft.

Fume in pace, ckr

It's the third estate of pipes, I think. You can know a lot about pipeMAKING, you can know a lot about pipe HISTORY, and you can know a lot about pipe REPAIR. Or, as in the case with most of us, an uneven distribution among the three. I don't do much repair work - none beyond my own pipes, which thankfully (knock on wood) have thus far very rarely needed fixing, so I'm not really up on ways to do things like fit new stems without oversanding stampings and such. And of course, I know Jack-all about pipe history.. Every so often, someone will write me assuming that because I'm a pipemaker, I must surely know some obscure trivia about the Dunhill family in the 1950's, or be able to answer their questions about the stamping on a post-war Comoy.

[LatakiaLover]

Every so often, someone will write me assuming that because I'm a pipemaker, I must surely know some obscure trivia about the Dunhill family in the 1950's, or be able to answer their questions about the stamping on a post-war Comoy.

I was exposed to that sort of thing at an early age. My dad was a professor of the French language and 17th and 18th century literature, and reporters would often call wanting to consult him about some current political event in France. He did not suffer fools well at all (remember Professor Kingsley on, "The Paper Chase" TV show in the 80s? that was my dad ), so would usually respond by asking them about the chemical analysis of printer's ink (or whatever would come to mind), since they worked for a newspaper. Then he'd let the silence drag while they struggled with the relevance. If they couldn't figure it out on their own after a bit, he'd, um, finally "help" them with it.

I always wondered why the word didn't get around among the reporters that calling my dad about current events was a Bad Idea. The mystery was solved years later when I learned that it was a hazing type trick the old hands would play on the new guys.

Anyway, thanks for the feedback. Repairing pipes is definitely something with limited appeal compared with making them in the first place. Part of the reason, I suppose, is because of the investment in tools and inventory it requires. There isn't much room for hobbiests. You're pretty much either in or out in that regard. It is also like being the bass player in a band, as opposed to the frontman. They are different personality types.

[ckr]

an uneven distribution among the three

However, I feel if LL keeps posting a bit more balance may be obtained by the rest of us. One of the benefits of the cyber space age.

Currently I also dread repairs, a stem replacement in my mind is - cut new stem - the shank gets marked up - sand and refinish the entire pipe.

LL on another thread you mentioned some thin film tape - a link maybe?

[LatakiaLover]

LL on another thread you mentioned some thin film tape - a link maybe?

Sure.

http://www.tapeconnection.com/-strse-27 ... Detail.bok

[ckr]

LL, thank you very much, my daughter just dropped the pipe I made her about two months ago and broke the stem. So I am stuck with a repair. I'll get the tape and hopefully not have to refinish the entire pipe.