Does anyone know how to properly trim a buffing wheel? I ganged a couple 20 ply 6" buffs on an arbor and they're aren't perfectly concentric. I tried running the buffer and trimming the buffs down using first a utility blade, then a razor blade (watch out!) at every imaginable cutting angle, without much success. The buffs still have a "high" and "low" spot in relation to one another. Suggestions?
Maybe I should order just some 50 ply buffs from Delvies (as suggested somewhere), but I got a bunch of these thinnish 20 ply wheels I wanted to put to use. Still, even with a new fatter single buff, aren't you supposed to do a little trim to true her up?
Trim the buff
Try using a very coarse, stiff backed sandpaper about 24 grit or coarser if you can find some. Hold it against the spinning buffing wheel until it's as even as you can get it.
Better still, if you have a hand held belt sander, use that to even the buff.
Keep your shop vac handy and wear a dust mask. You'll be raising a cotton storm.
You can also use this method to remove compound buildup from the wheel. Never use a metal wheel-rake. You'll turn the buffing surface black.
You will probably still need to trim the outer edges of the wheel, since they tend to flex outwards when you apply pressure to the buff. I just use a sharp pair of scissors & trim the outer 1/4" to 1/2" of both sides of the wheel.
If the buff seems a bit aggresive, try removing one rotation of stitching. Of course, it depends on how close the stitching is to begin with.
Don't bother trying to trim the spinning wheel with any type of blade. You'll either cock-up the wheel and/or your fingers. Trying to fight a buffing wheel is a losing battle, I have the scars to prove it!
Better still, if you have a hand held belt sander, use that to even the buff.
Keep your shop vac handy and wear a dust mask. You'll be raising a cotton storm.
You can also use this method to remove compound buildup from the wheel. Never use a metal wheel-rake. You'll turn the buffing surface black.
You will probably still need to trim the outer edges of the wheel, since they tend to flex outwards when you apply pressure to the buff. I just use a sharp pair of scissors & trim the outer 1/4" to 1/2" of both sides of the wheel.
If the buff seems a bit aggresive, try removing one rotation of stitching. Of course, it depends on how close the stitching is to begin with.
Don't bother trying to trim the spinning wheel with any type of blade. You'll either cock-up the wheel and/or your fingers. Trying to fight a buffing wheel is a losing battle, I have the scars to prove it!
Regards,
Frank.
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Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Thanks!
Great advice, Frank. I never would have thought to use my 3" belt sander. I did figure fairly quickly that the blades didn't cut it, fortunately, before I got seriously hurt.
This forum is a God-send, thanks to all you master pipe carvers for sharing your knowledge and Tyler for paving the way and Kurt for keeping it alive!
This forum is a God-send, thanks to all you master pipe carvers for sharing your knowledge and Tyler for paving the way and Kurt for keeping it alive!