New Pipe! Opinions wanted
New Pipe! Opinions wanted
Its been a while since I posted a pipe, so I thought I'd post my latest and get some feedback. I would definitely like some opinions on the stem. I ran into a void in the ebonite while shaping the stem and had to radically change the design. I probably should have just started over with a new piece of rod stock but I'm frugal (cheap!) and tried to save what I had. Now I'm not sure if it works with the stummel or not. One minute I think it is ok, the next I don't like it so I thought I'd ask the "experts". My original design was for a "standard" taper bit rather than the Faux push stem seen here. The best I could come up with and eliminate the void in the ebonite.
Shape is a bent egg.
Tale of the tape.
Length: 5 3/8"
Height: 1 3/4"
Tobacco Chamber Dia.: 13/16"
Weight: 47 grams
Shank Bead: Marblewood
Stem: Ebonite, hand cut
Opinions on the stem greatly appreciated! Any other feedback welcome as well.
Thanks in advance!
David
Shape is a bent egg.
Tale of the tape.
Length: 5 3/8"
Height: 1 3/4"
Tobacco Chamber Dia.: 13/16"
Weight: 47 grams
Shank Bead: Marblewood
Stem: Ebonite, hand cut
Opinions on the stem greatly appreciated! Any other feedback welcome as well.
Thanks in advance!
David
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I'll disagree and say that the stem looks right for the shape. At first look, it didn't flow to well, but after looking again I realized the problem I was seeing - the shank cap.
The squarish shape of the shank cap interrupts the flow from shank to stem, making the stem look out of place. It also makes the shank look too thin right at the end, and has the effect of making the taper in the shank seem too severe. The square profile is in stark contrast to the curving and fluid nature of the rest of the pipe.
I think that the way to solve that is to make the end cap more round, like a ring, and get rid of the cylindrical profile. Also, make the end cap slightly narrower in diameter - though only slightly. You may find that it doesn't need to be any smaller once the profile is rounded out.
The squarish shape of the shank cap interrupts the flow from shank to stem, making the stem look out of place. It also makes the shank look too thin right at the end, and has the effect of making the taper in the shank seem too severe. The square profile is in stark contrast to the curving and fluid nature of the rest of the pipe.
I think that the way to solve that is to make the end cap more round, like a ring, and get rid of the cylindrical profile. Also, make the end cap slightly narrower in diameter - though only slightly. You may find that it doesn't need to be any smaller once the profile is rounded out.
Thanks Kurt, I knew there was something that felt "wrong". I think the cap may have been the issue. Wish you'd have told me before I glued the darn thing on!KurtHuhn wrote: I think that the way to solve that is to make the end cap more round, like a ring, and get rid of the cylindrical profile. Also, make the end cap slightly narrower in diameter - though only slightly. You may find that it doesn't need to be any smaller once the profile is rounded out.
Thanks for the input Nick. I could see what you were getting at. Although there isn't anything wrong with your ideas, its just not my style. Good or bad, I prefer more subtle transitions from bowl to shank. I know some won't agree with me on that though. The sharp transitions always look mechanical to me. There are some shapes that require the sharp transition, but to my eye, this one isn't a shape that is complimented by sharply defining the bowl/shank junction. As for the taper on the shank, blame the briar on that one! The only reason there is a shank cap was due to a flaw. Unfortunately I started working on the shank to see how deep it was before I went with the cap. There is a little more taper from the bowl to the shank cap than I would have liked. Although I don't think it detracts too much from the overall effect of the pipe. However, that is purely subjective.