Etude #10, Liverpool.

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sethile
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Etude #10, Liverpool.

Post by sethile »

It's been a while, but I finally finished another pipe. This one turned out pretty well for an early effort. No major issues, so I stamped it with: S T 06 ET10 (my initials, the year, and ET 10). This is my 10th pipe, and the second pipe I've stamped. Here are some pics (Sorry about the color and detail.. I need to work on getting better pictures):
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Specs in inches: The bowl diameter 1.47 by 1.78 tall. The chamber diameter is .75 by 1.6 deep. The over all length is 5.85. The insert is briar from the same ebauchon as the stummel, with an attempt to match the grain with the shank.
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After the first staining and buffing I noticed a file mark and had to go back to 220 in that area, and work back through the grits, then lightly re-sand and re-stain the entire stummel. In the process, I ended up loosing it off the buffer. 8O Could have killed myself after that, but amazingly, the only damage was a minor ding on the rim, which I was able to sand out. Seems like all the staining and re-sanding ended up improving the over all finish. It's not great grain, but it is interesting, with some flame and some birdseye (falls out badly in spots though), and with a few minor flaws and sand pits.
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This is my third hand cut stem. This time I used German Ebonite, which I really like. The stem is not as thin as might be nice, but it's very comfortable, and I wanted to be on the safe side this time after sanding through the last one. I tried a fish tail type flare. I like the feel of it, but need to work on the aesthetics next time, especially the transition to the flare.

I think the ebonite ring after the briar insert is too wide. Looks a little chunky to me. I think it might look classier with one about half that width. The fit between the stem and shank is not bad, but there a a couple of very small chips at the end of the shank that can be seen in spots. Not sure what caused that. Perhaps it's time to sharpen or replace the Forstner bit I use for squaring up the shank. The over all symmetry and shape turned out decent. The mechanics are nearly perfect. Still lots of work to do on my skills, but I feel like I'm making progress.

All comments are welcome. Tear it to shreads folks, I'm here to learn!
Scott E. Thile
Collector, smoker, and aspiring pipemaker.
http://sethilepipes.com
Sysop: http://pipedia.org
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mahaffy
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Post by mahaffy »

Scott, first of all, it's a lovely pipe! Personally, I don't think the ring's too big . . . but for some reason it looks like the diameter is slightly less than the shank and insert. The bit -- perhaps only because it's darker than the briar -- looks slightly larger than the insert. Optical illusion? Maybe a very slight taper before you begin the real taper for the mouthpiece? I hesitate to offer suggestions, escept that doing so makes me think with more focus, and that may pay off for me some day, so take everything I say with the proverbial grain of salt. But the other advice I might offer may be of use: always keep one finger in the tobacco chamber when buffing, and try to keep from applying too much pressure.
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bvartist
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Post by bvartist »

Very nice pipe Scott! And I will echo John's thoughts, I don't think the ebonite ring is too big. Gives the illusion that the ebonite is all one piece with a veneer of briar! I like it. It does look like the bit is slightly larger than the shank/inlay. I struggle with that too!

Over time you'll learn to "feel" the buffer and be able to tell how much or little pressure and direction before the piece will be grabbed. It'll still happen occasionally though!

David
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marks
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Post by marks »

One thing I have gotten in the habit of doing is never touching a pipe with my bare hands after I sand with 100 grit. I do this by wearing latex gloves, and I use them when buffing (got that tip from this board by the way). They provide a secure grip while buffing, and I have yet to lose one since employing this method.

Scott, I agree with your comment that all the staining and restaining helped improve the finish. Staining early and sanding off between grits has the added benefit of you being able to spot file marks and marks left by rougher grades of paper when going through the grits, and avoiding having to retouch areas of the pipe.

By the way, nice pipe.
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achduliebe
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Post by achduliebe »

Very nice Scott! Great work. I really can't add anything that has not been mentioned above. Keep up the good work!
-Bryan

"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"

www.quinnpipes.com
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Nick
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Post by Nick »

Nice shape bud. I'm going to go against the grain here (LOL) and say that the briar band is too thick. So is the vulcanite spacer too. It doesn't look bad. A thinner odornment would simply look more polished in my opinion.
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sethile
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Post by sethile »

Thanks for the comments guys! Sure enjoy this forum and owe most all my limited skills to it!

Marks, I can see the latex gloves would help with grip and keeping the briar clean, as well as keeping stain off the hands, but I really hate those things, especially in the summer. My hands sweat like crazy in those, and I really like being able to feel for high spots and bulges as I sand, and also just enjoy the tactile feel of the wood as I work it.

I'm with you Nick... I just think it would look a little classier with smaller inserts, especially the ebonite ring, but I think perhaps the briar too. I would have liked a longer shank (ran out of room on this block), and was trying to make up for that with a longer insert.

I agree, the stem does look thicker than it should. It's not thincker than the shank, according to the straight edge, but it certainly does give that apperance. I even worked it down some, but I do think it would look better if I'd tapperd it more.

Thanks again for the comments all!
Scott E. Thile
Collector, smoker, and aspiring pipemaker.
http://sethilepipes.com
Sysop: http://pipedia.org
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