How do you make a bead ring insert

Tano · Post by **Tano** » Tue May 30, 2006 5:14 pm

Hi All

I have seen some beautifull bead (rings) inserts on stems, but I still can't figure out how its done. If anybody can guide from start to finish I would greatly appreciate it. I own a wood Delta lathe, have the parting tool and a gouge. If I need to get other special tools, not a problem.

Thanking you in advance.
Tano.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Wed May 31, 2006 11:21 am

The least expensive way to make a bead is with a skew chisel. It's tough to explain though. You use the tip to dig a groove on either side of the bead, then you roll the skew so that you round out the resulting high ridge between the grooves. You can also use a cutoff tool to make the grooves, but you still use a skew chisel to round out the edges of the bead.

There are also rather expensive beading tools for sale at any woodturning store, but they're one-trick ponies, and not allowed in my workshop.

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Wed May 31, 2006 5:05 pm

I agree with Kurt, a skew chisel is the way to go. Those beading chisels you can buy are only good for one purpose, so not really worth the money. I use a small 3/8" skew for better control.

David

Tano · Post by **Tano** » Wed May 31, 2006 11:55 pm

Thanks Kurt and David.

The process is what's stumping me. Let me see if I understand how it's done. The first thing, obviously, is to complete a beed from some stock making sure that the dimentions will match those of the shank and stem. I assume the bead is glued as a final task otherwise it would be difficult to sand the stem and briar without damaging the bead, right?
It seems to me that it is a very tricky. You have to be very careful with the application of the glue, unlike adding an insert that can be sanded together with stem and shank. I'm sure I can find some books on turning beeds, but I'd like to read about the different stages of application to the pipe. Does this make sense?

Thanks again, Tano.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 12:42 pm

Tano.. I think you've got your wording mixed up. Sounds to me like you're asking how to put a band on a stem rather than cut a bead into it.

If not.. then see if you can post a picture as an example of what you're looking to do. Maybe someone can help you better then.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:00 pm

A beaded accent is usualy epoxied on as part of final finishing. I don't epoxy it on until the last moment - just before carnuba.

The process is very simple once you've seen it done. If I can remember to actually do it, I'll film it this weekend.

ScoJo · Post by **ScoJo** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 11:14 pm

Thanks, Kurt - I'd be interested in seeing that too.

Tano · Post by **Tano** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 1:21 am

Sorry Hazmat, I don't know how to post a picture yet. I would sure like to get some feedback of my own pipes.However, if you go to the postings under Gallery, on page 2 look for "my latest creation" by David (Bvartist), and you will see a picture of a pipe with bead ring insert.

Kurt, if the ring is glued before carnuba, then measurment must be very crucial. It would be interesting to see how that is done.

Tano

ScoJo · Post by **ScoJo** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 9:12 am

This is the kind of beast you are talking about, right?

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 10:00 am

Tano wrote: if you go to the postings under Gallery, on page 2 look for "my latest creation" by David (Bvartist), and you will see a picture of a pipe with bead ring insert.
Tano

Tano.
I can tell you how that one was done! :thumb:

The bead on my pipe you referred to is a trim ring on the stem, not a bead on the shank. To do that one, I faced off the end of a piece of material for the bead, drilled a 5/16" hole through the center, then cut off the length I wanted with a parting tool. Then I faced off my piece of ebonite for the stem and drilled a 5/16" mortise, then drilled the airway. I cut and drilled a piece of 5/16" delrin long enough for the mortise-trim ring-tenon and epoxied the delrin, ebonite and wood for the bead together. When I drilled the mortise on the stummel, I turned a portion of the shank on the lathe then inserted the stem assembly and turned the portion of the ebonite to roughly the same diameter as the shank, then rounded over the bead with a skew chisel.
Hope thats clearer than it sounds to me! 8O
Doing it this way you've got to be careful not to round over the end of the shank while sanding since you can't sand with the stem in place. It has some advantages and disadvantages over doing a bead on the shank.

David

Tano · Post by **Tano** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 7:25 pm

Thank you David.
It seems reasonably clear. I've also seen it glued on the shank. Your way might make it easier to turn, knowing tha a stem rod is easier to chuck.
Best to All.
Tano

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:57 am

Tano wrote:Thank you David.
It seems reasonably clear. I've also seen it glued on the shank. Your way might make it easier to turn, knowing tha a stem rod is easier to chuck.
Best to All.
Tano

Tano,

To make a bead glued on the shank I would think the best thing to do would be to form the bead off the shank. I'd turn it and form the bead from a piece of stock then cut it off with a parting tool to the size I needed. So the bead would already be formed and drilled. Turn a small tenon on the end of the shank to accept the bead after drilling the mortise. During shaping and sanding I'd use a sacrificial piece instead of the bead. A piece of scrap wood that will fit the tenon would be fine. Just anything to keep from rounding over the end of the shank. Then after sanding, staining and buffing with compound, epoxy your finished bead onto the shank and wax. Simple! 8O

David