How do I get a broken tenon out of a shank

Discussion of pipe restoration and sales, as well as pipe repair and maintenance tricks.
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ArtGuy
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How do I get a broken tenon out of a shank

Post by ArtGuy »

It makes me sick to think about it. I was just finishing Fat Boy's Cousin last night when the buffing wheel grabbed him and slammed him to the table breaking the square shank stem I had worked so hard getting correct.

I can still save him with a new stem, but how do I get the tenon out of the shank????

:oops:
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Tyler
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Post by Tyler »

OUCH!

What a painful deal!

On that brandy that I just finished for A.T., I was all done with it, and dropped it in the garage. Fortunately no permanent damage was done, but it did dent the bowl slightly in a few places. I had to resand all the way back down to 400 grit, restain, and refinish. I hollered VERY loudly in the garage when I did it!

To answer your question...twist a screw into the hole in the tenon and pull 'er out. If it is real tight, you may need to grab the screw with pliers. Don't twist the screw in so far that you expand the tenon too much and crack the shank.

Tyler
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PastorPipe
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New Stem

Post by PastorPipe »

Once you have a tenon out, where can you get a new stem made? I just had an old Savinelli Autograph on which the stem broke. How much is it going to cost me? I am a grad student a seminary so I need a relatively cheap solution. Thanks.


-Matt-
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bscofield
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Post by bscofield »

google for "pipe repair" there are dozens of guys who can help you out.


This is a tool for pulling out tenons...

http://www.pipemakers.org/tools/plugpuller.JPG
alexanderfrese
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Post by alexanderfrese »

Tyler wrote:
On that brandy that I just finished for A.T., I was all done with it, and dropped it in the garage. Fortunately no permanent damage was done, but it did dent the bowl slightly in a few places. I had to resand all the way back down to 400 grit, restain, and refinish. I hollered VERY loudly in the garage when I did it!

Tyler
Ahem, your Tylerness,
feeling small to your outstanding knowledge, experience and wisdom (be assured, I don't want to make any jokes about your profession, it all comes from my impression of your work presented in this site), I still dare to suggest some of my profane and probably so-unbearable-rough-it-might-not-be-worth-to–mention-it-methods:

I treat those dents with a soldering iron and some wet tissue.

I used the method that helped me out with some estate stummels that deperately wanted to learn to fly from the buffing wheel: A wet tissue, a hot soldering iron. Pressing the hot tip of the Iron to the dents left from the floor the stummel finally had landed on – the wet tissue in between – raises and evens some rather serious dents. I hardly had to resand them. If, then only with the finer grades. I think, I read about this somewhere in the WW-pipe-web, and it sounded familiar to me, since I had already used this long ago on dents that scratch into the back of a guitar (from the belt fastens).

Respectfully

Alex
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RadDavis
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Post by RadDavis »

Once you have a tenon out, where can you get a new stem made? I just had an old Savinelli Autograph on which the stem broke. How much is it going to cost me? I am a grad student a seminary so I need a relatively cheap solution. Thanks.
Hi Matt,

Mark Tinsky can fix that pipe for about $20.00.

Here's a link: http://www.amsmoke.com/

Hope this helps.

Rad
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Tyler
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Post by Tyler »

Alex,

Thanks for the suggestion. I am aware of that procedure as a method of dent removal, and have used it. I don't remember why I did not do that in this instance. (You'll notice that my post was over a year ago.) I think it was because the dent was enough to rip into unstained wood. Popping the dent back out would not have been a total solution. Restaining was in order, and I took the long and sure route.

:)

Thanks again.

Tyler
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Heinz_D
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Post by Heinz_D »

Just read this thread by browsing through the forum...

John (and all :wink: ), sometimes it may be helpful to use a refrigerator! Put your broken part into it and wait until it's really cold. The shank and the tennon will shrink both but in different manner! If you've luck the tennon will shrink a little bit more than the shank and you can carefully pull it out easier. To pull it out you can use a fitting woodscrew. It's a simple method to detach different materials easily - in the other way, if the shank will shrink more than the tennon, you can heat the part and than pull out the tennon. In this case the shank will expand more than the tennon. You've to give both methods a try, in which I would try the refrigerator first...


Greetings,
Heinz
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