Am I ever going to get to use my delrin??

[ArtGuy]

To face the delrin itself I use a cutting tool on the taig. Really the only thing I use a forester for is to face off the end of the shank after drilling the mortise.

For those interested this is my exact order of drilling the stummel and may or may not be helpfull and/or different than what everyone else is doing.

Drill Mortise (5/16" brad point bit)
Face off shank end (1 1/2" forester bit)
Drill airway (11/64" brad point bit)
Drill Tobacco Chamber (3/4" Trent Rudat shaped twist drill)

With this order I ensure that each brad point is going in without a pilot hole as they are designed to do. I do all of my drilling on a Jet Mini wood lathe at 500 RPM. I find that with the modified twist drill bit there is no need for a pilot hole for the chamber. I just line her up and go until I hit the airway.

For preparing stems I use the Taig on the second to slowest speed.

Face off both ends of rod stock (taig cutting tool)
Drill mortise for delrin tenon (5/16" brad point bit)
Drill airway to about 1 1/2 inch from button end (11/64" taper bit)
Drill rest of the way through the button (1/16" aircraft bit)
If I am going to turn part of the stem I do that now.

Face off both ends of delrin rod (taig cutting tool)
Drill 11/64" hole through 5/16" delrin rod (11/64" brad point bit)
Cut about 6-8 rings into end of delrin to be inserted into stem (1/16" hand held parting tool)

Apply glue to the grooved end of delrin and pound into the stem with hammer. (5 min two part epoxy)

Sit back and light up some Bob's chocolat flake and wait for epoxy to get gummy (10 minutes or so) and peel it off in one big booger.

Continue smoking bowl while waiting for epoxy to cure completely. (45 minutes to an hour whatever a bowl of Bob's takes me).

[ScoJo]

So you drill out the delrin before gluing it into the stem? Then you need to drill again once the epoxy is cured?

If you're willing to have me up again to show me this I'll bring the Bob's!

[ArtGuy]

I drill the stem and delrin first so that I do not get an airlock in there when pounding the tenon into the stem. A quick drill with a hand drill takes care of any possible leftover expoxy. However. the manner in which I put it on the tenon is such that all excess epoxy is pushed out the front and none through the back.

I sand the inside of the stem and tenon to 400 grit to that takes off any glue too.

Bring the Bob's, blocks and rod and we can drill and fit a couple.

PS. It might also be helpfull for you to bring up your bits so we can see if they same thing happens on my machine. We would want to make certain that this proceedure works with your exact tools and material.

[bscofield]

For anyone using a drill press like myself, you can also do some shaping/facing of the end of the delrin by chucking it (gently) into your drill press and spinning it.