Chuck modifications

tomgjone · Post by **tomgjone** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 5:45 pm

Hey Guys,
I am using a metal lathe for my work and I am using a 4-jaw self-centering chuck. I have removed 2 jaws and I am loseing blocks all over the place.
Is there any modifications that I can do to this chuck (it is 4 inch) to help me with this problem? I sure could use some ideas.
I just can't afford to go Ken Lambs chuck alto I like that idea.
Thank You
Tom

munkey · Post by **munkey** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 6:10 pm

Hey Tom,

There are pics of jaws I had modified HERE

The guy who modified them for me is Trent Rudat and he charges about $200. I have been pleased with mine so far. He can be reached here:
trudat1970(at)netzero.net

tomgjone · Post by **tomgjone** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 6:17 pm

Thank You Munky,
I am going to try to get a hold of that guy today. I really like that idea.
Thank You
Tom

munkey · Post by **munkey** » Sat Feb 04, 2006 6:20 pm

Sure thing.

If you aren't able to get ahold of him via email drop me a PM and I can get you his phone number.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 6:10 pm

Metal lathe chucks don't have jaws deep enough for holding briar very effetively - they just don't sick out from the face of the chuck far enough. And they're smooth on the gripping service, so they don't have good grip.

The Talon, Oneway, or other chucks can be bought with #2 profiled jaws that are good for holding most blocks when you only use two of them. I also recently saw a great set pf jaws from Vicmarc that I want, but that involves buying a new chuck.

ArtGuy · Post by **ArtGuy** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 2:33 pm

what vicmarc jaws are you talking about Kurt?

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 6:42 pm

Pooka wrote:Alright, newbie lathe-operator here. Before I buy this monstrosity, can I do all the turning work I need (stummel AND stem) with a regular old 4-jaw chuck (i'm looking at the Cummings Mini Metal Lathe), or do I need a special type (talon-one-way-thingy)? Can I get away with just the factory 4-jaw and turn basic stummels and stems?

It's rather tiring to surf all over the net without a clear answer.

Thanks,

Rob

You can't (easily) turn stems with an independent 4-jaw either. It's better to use a 3 or 4-jaw that is self-centering so you don't waste valuable time and energy trying to center something that cannot be perfectly centered by hand.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 7:24 pm

ArtGuy wrote:what vicmarc jaws are you talking about Kurt?

These ones here:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-b ... y=191-3803

They're about the same size as the Oneway #2 jaws, but at least twice as deep. I'm considering getting a Vicmark chuck just so that I can easily chuck an oddball stummel when I want to.

ArtGuy · Post by **ArtGuy** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 10:41 am

Huh, I suppose they won't a oneway eh? You know, for the price of a chuck and jaws you could have Trent Rudat ( trudat1970(at)netzero.net )modify your oneway #2 jaws. I think that is what I am going to do.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 1:07 pm

Quite right, but then I'll still only have one chuck.

ArtGuy · Post by **ArtGuy** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 2:51 pm

True but the modified jaws would be flat and not concave. Do you think the curved nature of the vicmarc jaws would actually limit what you could grab? I would think for the money I would rather have jaws that crab on a wide flat surface like a vice.

You are more experienced than I with wood turning in general. What do you think?

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 4:53 pm

Thos Vicmarc jaws have a serrated surface on the interior, which really helps grab things. I like the #2 Oneway jaws for this reason. However, the Vicmarc jaws son't appear to have the same contour as the Oneway, and that may pose a problem for gripping non-flat or non-round blocks. Hmm. I just noticed that difference. It looks like a small difference, but in practice, I think it would be major. :think:

Maybe I just need to ask my father-in-law to modify my #2 jaws....