Intro and a question

jchamb · Post by **jchamb** » Wed May 05, 2004 4:52 pm

I've been smoking pipes for almost 40 years now, and finally decided to try making a few of my own. Luckily I got steered over here from the Yahoo pipes group, and have spent the last couple of weeks reading all the posts and advice posted here (thanks for this great resource!)

Now, I have managed to finally create 2 straight pipes from Pimo kits using mostly hand tools, plus a 2" sanding drum on my drill press and grinder/buffer which I've been using for years to refinish and polish my own estate finds.

I have another 2 predrilled kits (1 bent and 1 plateau bent) on the way, and then I think I'll branch out and try drilling my own blocks!

I've read through the Pimo book several times, plus all the reading here and at Knox, and still have a couple of questions on drilling.
I know that I'll just HAVE to buy the tenon turner from Pimo, but I've been trying to save a bit of cash on the other drill bits. I have used my grinder to shape 3/4" and 7/8" space bits, and testing on chunks of a 2x4 the seem to work pretty well (but I have no idea how they'll work on briar).

So far I've picked up a 5/16 bit for the mortise hole, a 3/16" "aircraft bit" (about 6" long") for the air hole, and a countersink bit from my local ACE hardware store.

The 3/16" bit looks a bit large to me, but that's what the Pimo book recommended for the air hole. Would 1/8" be better or worse?

Are there any other bits sizes that are commonly used for the mortise, air hole or whatever?

Aside from getting a lathe, what else would you recommend?

I've been trying my home-ground spade bits, and the mortise/air hole bits on blocks cut from a 2x4 to practice aligning the holes. Hopefully I'll get this reasonably well figured out before I start on a block of briar!

(I have a couple of undrilled blocks coming from Mark Tinsky, and I don't especially want to mess them up too badly).

Thanks for any response, and thanks for the great forum for learning all this stuff!

john

Post by **Tyler** » Wed May 05, 2004 7:49 pm

John,

Welcome to the forum!

It sounds like you are off to a very good start. Keep it up!

Your drill bits all sound good. The only one that is not identical to what I typically use is the draught hole bit. I typically use 5/32" instead of 3/16". You might grab a 5/32" if you are worried about the draught hole being too large. I've never tried a 3/16" so I don't know what impact it might make. I do think open drawing pipes are good, so I'd say that 3/16" is better than 1/8". Having a 6" draught hole bit will come in handy, but a normal size will suffice lots of the time and can be easier to drill with since it is not as flexible as a long bit will be.

You've probably already seen the instructions I have provided, but in case you haven't, here are some of my comments about tools:

http://tylerlanepipes.com/modules.php?n ... ng.1~Tools

Again, welcome, and please post pictures of your work if you get a chance! We always like to see new pipes.

Tyler

jchamb · Post by **jchamb** » Wed May 05, 2004 8:09 pm

Thanks for the info! That put my mind at ease a bit...
Yep, I've read all the articles on your site (several times over), and watched all the videos also. This is a GREAT place, and I certainly haven't seen any other place which comes even close to the amount of info here. Thanks for all the work which you (very obviously) have put into your web site.

Since I've been checking in "lurking and reading" almost every day, I noticed the new photo gallery this afternoon, and have already posted photos of my first 2 pipes (folder jchamb).

Thanks again!

john

marks · Post by **marks** » Wed May 05, 2004 10:05 pm

If you are going to use spade bits to drill the tobacco chamber, make sure you drill a pilot hole in the block before you use the spade bit. It helps keep it from chattering. Also, touch up your spade bit on a sharpening stone from time to time to keep it nice and sharp. It really helps.

If you are drilling on a drill press, the following are some tips that were taught to me that I use every time I drill a block. I flatten out the spot where I am going to drill my draft hole, otherwise the drill bit may flex if you are drilling straight into the plateaux, and your draft hole may not end up in the center of the bowl (learned this the hard way). If you want to leave the plateaux, make a very small flat spot, or you can make a divot with a dremel.

Once you drill the block for the draft hole and mortise, then set up the block to drill the pilot hole and tobacco chamber. When drilling the tobacco chamber, stick a small wooden shrimp skewer into the draft hole, and you will be able to feel the spade bit when it gets very close to the bottom of the draft hole. At that point, vacuum out the shavings, and use a mirror to look into the hole. If you are happy with the drilling, stop, but I usually find that I have to drill a little more to be precise. Here is where you have to go really slow and take little steps. With the drill press off, I run the spade bit to the bottom of the tobacco chamber, then bottom out the depth stop, then back off a quarter to half turn on the depth stop (sometimes less if I only have a millimeter left to drill). I then back out the spade bit, turn on the drill press, drill, vacuum, look, repeat if necessary. It works like a charm at getting your draft hole lined up right at the bottom of the tobacco chamber. you can also use the skewer as a feeler gauge to see if there is a little ridge at the bottom as well. If you are using a lathe to drill, I have no idea how to drill a block (never used one)

A couple of other points. Once you get the block set in the press, do all your work before removing (draft hole, mortise, facing/squaring the end of the shank) assuming you are working on a straight or slightly bent pipe. That way, all your holes are lined up and everything is square.

Speaking of squaring, make sure you square the block before drilling, or your draft hole may not come to the center of the tobacco chamber. Also, if you drill too fast, you can flex the bit, and get offline (I learned both of these the hard way too).

Hope this helps.

jchamb · Post by **jchamb** » Wed May 05, 2004 10:46 pm

Oh yes! Those are great tips. Thanks for sharing, and I think that your tips will get me off to a great start.

john

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Thu May 06, 2004 8:20 am

Definatly great tips big guy. Thanks.

Jeffery_Suter · Post by **Jeffery_Suter** » Thu May 06, 2004 3:19 pm

Marks,

Exellent advice! Welcome John, it's good to see another Yahoo Club member here!

jchamb · Post by **jchamb** » Thu May 06, 2004 5:50 pm

Actually I think you're the one that steered me over here! Thank goodness for that, because I don't think there's a better resource on the internet.

(As I recall, it was also your posting of some pics of your pipes that got me interested also).

I thank you Jeff! (although my wife just might not be as happy about it as I am...)

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Thu May 06, 2004 8:05 pm

Another Texan too I see.

omar_colocci · Post by **omar_colocci** » Thu May 06, 2004 8:45 pm

Hey, Mark! Great "class"!

Jeffery_Suter · Post by **Jeffery_Suter** » Fri May 07, 2004 10:03 am

Well John, you are off to a great start!

I look forward to your future work!