I'd like to make my first pipe soon, after I complete the batch of estates sitting in front of me.
Finding the right briar is my problem - I don't want to waste my valuable time on a block that's not seasoned, but don't want to wait two years to begin.
My questions: What is an average minimum aging period, and what actually happens when working greenish briar?
Briar for 1st Pipe
Re: Briar for 1st Pipe
I think that if you get some inexpensive blocks from either Vermont Freehand or RawKrafted you can begin immediately.
I purchased some briar from Premal at RawKrafted that he advised me to wait 6 months on before cutting, but otherwise, I have just cut them when I got to them.
I can’t speak to the difference between cutting old briar and newer briar (“green”) except that I occasionally become aware of a difference in density/weight per volume in some blocks. Some are heavier for size/volume than average, and I assume that they have more moisture, some are lighter, and I assume that they have less. Did they grow higher on the mountain? or in a different micro climate? did the soil have better nutrients? or are they older?
Purchasing an expensive block in hopes of getting “the perfect pipe” on your first try is unrealistic- even if you do everything right, Mother Nature may have a few curve balls in any block of briar.
Even if you possess great skill and good tools, there are many things that you have to do to get a pipe right. You will not even be aware of all of them as you start - the questions and problem solving develop as you proceed. Making a good pipe is a process- you will find that there are often several ways to do a task and you will probably make some of your own tools as you progress.
I would recommend starting with lower quality blocks and working out your processes on some “practice” pipes before jumping in with an expensive block. “ Perfect” pipes will appear in your production line as rarities.
Your job will be to develop your skills so that that “perfect” pipe is properly drilled and shaped, has good stem work, and has a nice finish.
I purchased some briar from Premal at RawKrafted that he advised me to wait 6 months on before cutting, but otherwise, I have just cut them when I got to them.
I can’t speak to the difference between cutting old briar and newer briar (“green”) except that I occasionally become aware of a difference in density/weight per volume in some blocks. Some are heavier for size/volume than average, and I assume that they have more moisture, some are lighter, and I assume that they have less. Did they grow higher on the mountain? or in a different micro climate? did the soil have better nutrients? or are they older?
Purchasing an expensive block in hopes of getting “the perfect pipe” on your first try is unrealistic- even if you do everything right, Mother Nature may have a few curve balls in any block of briar.
Even if you possess great skill and good tools, there are many things that you have to do to get a pipe right. You will not even be aware of all of them as you start - the questions and problem solving develop as you proceed. Making a good pipe is a process- you will find that there are often several ways to do a task and you will probably make some of your own tools as you progress.
I would recommend starting with lower quality blocks and working out your processes on some “practice” pipes before jumping in with an expensive block. “ Perfect” pipes will appear in your production line as rarities.
Your job will be to develop your skills so that that “perfect” pipe is properly drilled and shaped, has good stem work, and has a nice finish.
"Hettinger, if you stamp 'hand made' on a dog turd, some one will buy it."
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
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Maddwarf69
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Thu May 13, 2021 2:21 am
Re: Briar for 1st Pipe
A little tag on to Doc's comments. I've made many of my own pipes from Premal's "reject" blocks. More often than not, they are sound other than cosmetic defects. Sometimes, by the time I get down to a stummel, they have no defects. They have been great for learning on a budget.
Re: Briar for 1st Pipe
I don't expect perfection, but I also don't want my first pipe to crack six months down the road just because I used an unseasoned block.
Thanks for the advice on the lower quality blocks.
The moisture issue with briar is a little hard to comprehend. I've been a woodworker for 40 years and a remodeling contractor for 20 years, so evaluating moisture levels in wood is nothing new to me. But briar, apparently, is in a class alone just because of its density. And perhaps grain structure? My gut says that working it in a green state would be easier, but that the shank would shrink as it dried, making the mortise and airway dimensions shrink as well. That's how some chair makers make their legs fit tightly, as I'm sure you all know. But is that the sum of the risk in working green or partially seasoned briar? If that were the case, you all would be roughing your pipes and then setting them aside to season quickly before final tooling. But you're not, so I think there must be other risks than just shrinkage. But what are they?
Thanks for the advice on the lower quality blocks.
The moisture issue with briar is a little hard to comprehend. I've been a woodworker for 40 years and a remodeling contractor for 20 years, so evaluating moisture levels in wood is nothing new to me. But briar, apparently, is in a class alone just because of its density. And perhaps grain structure? My gut says that working it in a green state would be easier, but that the shank would shrink as it dried, making the mortise and airway dimensions shrink as well. That's how some chair makers make their legs fit tightly, as I'm sure you all know. But is that the sum of the risk in working green or partially seasoned briar? If that were the case, you all would be roughing your pipes and then setting them aside to season quickly before final tooling. But you're not, so I think there must be other risks than just shrinkage. But what are they?
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LatakiaLover
- Posts: 3120
- Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 4:29 am
- Location: Kansas City, USA
- Contact:
Re: Briar for 1st Pipe
The top makers indeed "shelf" their pipes after every major shaping step to allow internal moisture & related to redistribute itself in the pursuit of dimensional stability. Things like stem fit, shank extension transition smoothness, etc. usually remain notably better OVER TIME because of it.
But it's a "premium" thing. When pipes cost into four figures such attention to detail is part of achieving the look & feel.
It's pointless unless working at that level, though.
In short, don't worry about moisture cycling, resting, and so forth for the time being (and the forseeable future). You'll know it's time when/if you get there. Until then the only attention that you need pay to the moisture issue is if you live in an unusually high or low humidity climate like Miami or Phoenix, where a couple months of resting blocks after they are delivered is a good idea. Otherwise, just dive in.
But it's a "premium" thing. When pipes cost into four figures such attention to detail is part of achieving the look & feel.
It's pointless unless working at that level, though.
In short, don't worry about moisture cycling, resting, and so forth for the time being (and the forseeable future). You'll know it's time when/if you get there. Until then the only attention that you need pay to the moisture issue is if you live in an unusually high or low humidity climate like Miami or Phoenix, where a couple months of resting blocks after they are delivered is a good idea. Otherwise, just dive in.
UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.