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That's an interesting shape. Personally, I woul trim down the top of the shank to that it stays a fairly constant diameter from stem to bowl. I'd also be looking to sandblast that pipe - given it's pronounced ring grain. Looking good!
Thanks for the comments Kurt. I have been thinking about trimming down the shank some, that is kind of why I have been dragging my feet on wrapping this one up. As for sandblasting, I have thought about that too, unfortunately I have never done any sandblasting and do not have access to any sandblasting equipment. Maybe at a later date I can come back to that, when and if I try out sandblasting.
Thanks again for the comments.
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
I agree with Kurt--the first thing that jumped out at me was the ring grain--it pops out more the that regular grain does.
I remember reading a post here (I think it was from Tyler) that said (and I don't mean to sound harsh) but without a clear, crisp shank to bowl transition, the pipe will look amatuerish. That post has stuck with me and I think my pipes are better for it.
You know Dave, that is funny you say that. Normally I try to be very very crisp on my transition from shank to bowl. In fact, on every pipe I have made, with the exception of my first and now this one, I have strived for a crisp line. For some reason on this pipe I laid back a little and actually the pipe does have a pretty defined transition between the shank and bowl, I just chose to have the top of the shank flow into the bowl.
I think I will take a couple more pics from a different angle and post them tonight. Just too add a little light on the transition from shank to bowl.
Thanks for the comments, I honestly appreciate them.
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
No problem, I actually did some fine tuning on it last night. After studying it for a good while, I thought it needed a little more subtle final shaping. I will try to get some pics up today.
Steve,
Thanks for the comments! I am going to check into the blasting thing on this pipe. I think one of my brothers might have access to a blasting cabinet. If not, I will see what I can arrange.
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
I really like the way you made the opening to the tobacco chamber. And the opening to the bit.:thumb:
Very nice.
Too bad about all the flaws. I commiserate on that aspect.
Flaws can get depressing.
I still feel like you could remove a lot of wood from the shank.
I wonder if there is a way to get that shape"impression" in a pipe that is not quite so "thick"?
BTW- I like these sorts of shapes. The challenge, to me, is to get a pipe the shape I want and eliminate as much wood as possible in the process - to infuse as much grace and a "feeling" of lightness, of balance, as possible.
I know that is vague, but it is hard to use words to describe these ideas.
I don't want to give a negative impression. I am giving my gut reactions. I hope they can help somehow.
What I like the most about the general shape is theat the curves tend to work pretty well together. No jarring to the eye.
HTH
Best regards and congradulations on another pipe :thumb: ,
Steve
Thanks for the comments. I agree with all your points, this pipe was kind of doomed from the get go. I screwed up the drilling on it and almost chunked it in the fire pile. I was aggravated with myself because I had drilled the airway a little to the left. I decided to try and salvage it as best I could and make it a shop pipe. I think it worked out pretty well. It definately is not a clencher, there is a lot of wood on this pipe! On top of the misdrill, it has some yucky little pits on it as well. I still have a great deal to learn about pipe making and making the best with what I had after the mis-drill was a nice learning experience on this pipe. I tried something different with the rim of the tobacco chamber and with my staining. Both turned out fairly decent in my opinion (which is biased). I also refined my sanding technique a bit on this pipe. I have gotten over my initial aggravation with the mis-drill and am fairly happy with the results obtained.
I have three more blocks of wood sitting on the work bench and a couple of designs sketched out. My next couple of pipes should be a little more refined and a bit more trimmed down. I am very excited about these designs and hope I can pull them off. We'll see...
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
Yes the stem is a highly modified preformed stem. To open up the slit of my stems I use a set of needle files. I make sure that there is a constant flow on the side walls. The way the slits are on the preformed stems, they have like a little shoulder on both sides of the airway opening. I don't like that, so I get rid of it by making sure it is a smooth wall from the side of the slit opening to the corresponding side of the airway opening. I have been pretty happy with the way this modification smokes.
A few more specifics on the way I open it up. I usually start with a round needle file that is about and 1/8" in diameter and comes down to a sharp point. Using the side of the point of this file, I scrape the bottom and top edges until they start opening up. I then alternate between this file and a flat needle file that comes down to a point like a knife. I insert this into the slit and start working down the inside of the slit from the top and bottom edges to the airway. It takes a good hour or two, but I think it really pays off when the bit is finished.
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
Bryan,
After seeing different views of this pipe I can really appreciate it's shape and I see that the curves where the shank and bowl meet are very well done. Great job of making the best of a tough situation--being dealt a block with those kinds of flaws can be frustrating to say the least. I'm with Steve, I really like the tobacco chamber rim--really nice. Good luck with those next couple of blocks and post some picks when they're done.
Like Dave's volcano, I like the rim treatment on this pipe. Like Magruder said, this would be a good candidate for sandblasting, or at the least rustication due to the flaws in the wood.
A couple of pointers, if you are interested. Stem shank junction (in the picture) looks to be uneven. Sanding to get everything even helps here. You don't want to be able to even feel the joint, much less see it. (And, always sand with the stem attached to the pipe).
If you don't have them, you should get yourself a set of calipers and measure the thickness of the bowl at the rim (among other things that calipers are good for), and get it even all around, if that is the intent. And yes, it takes time to do that, but it pays off in how the finished product looks.
The line of the pipe looking from the lower back of the bowl to the bottom of the pipe, through the shank, into the stem looks very clean and smooth. Nice Job. That is sometimes tough to get right.
Thanks marks for the pointers. The calipers is definately something that I need to get. As for the shank/stem junction, I thought I had that pretty squared away, but I will have to go back and look at that. Once again, thanks for the pointers I appreciate you openly sharing your knowledge and experience. Thanks!
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
Hey marks...you were right, it was a bit off. On top of that I did not have my stem lined up completely with the shank. They are kind of oval shaped there at the junction and a little twist to the right or left throws off the alignment. Thanks once again for your comments and help!
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"