My best shot to date at copying my one and only billiard.

[shikano53]

Note: I did not drill the airhole or the tobacco chamber, an acquaintance with a lathe did that part.
I have a Dunhill Bruyere #3103 and I gave copying it my best shot to date.
First two pictures of the Dunhill



Here is my attempt. As I was working, the Dunhill was always within hand reach and I was constantly glancing at it, comparing, running my fingers along its lines. To my surprise, I noticed as I was working that the Dunhill actually has a slight dimple and is not a straight transition from the bowl to the shank and I copied that too. I know a true Billiard shape should be straight and also have a round tapered stem. All I had workable at the time was the round shouldered stem.

I take all comments and critique seriously and usually copy the comments and instructions for improvement and put them into a word file for referral.

Thank you all in advance for your help.

[shikano53]

I forgot to mention that I did not turn the shank either.

[DocAitch]

Much better.
Three things that I note are the 1) the transition between shank and bowl should be crisper. Think of two cylinders meeting ( or a cylinder meeting a sphere) with a smallish radius to blend them together.
2) the stem flares out from the shank in the vertical view. Try to hold the same line for about 2/3s of the stem then a slight fishtail tail if you wish. Use a straight edge to judge this
3) also in the vertical view from the bottom, the bowl is not cylindrical. Part of this may be your loose transition.
Good job for a third pipe.
DocAitch.

[shikano53]

Thanks very much Doc. Again, all comments copied and placed in my Billiard critique word document.

[DocAitch]

I did note that the transition of the Dunhill appeared to be a little "loose", especially in the right side profile. Dunhill can get away with that stuff, but that doesn't mean that it represents good technique. Whoever was on the French wheel was either new or had a bad day- remember that this pipe came out of a factory with multiple hands of varying degree of skill involved.
DocAitch

[DocAitch]

I added a couple of edits.
I am impressed that you immediately took George's advice and jumped on a billiard. As Todd, and others, would say, now make 10 more.
Good job!
DocAitch

[shikano53]

Thanks Doc. What would be your suggestions for doing a better job on the stem? The photos don't show it but I scuffed the stem at the shank interface when I took it to the green diamond which I probably shouldn't have done. I generally work my way through the micro-mesh grits all the way up to 12,000 grit. It is very tedious and time consuming. The garage wall in front of my work bench is full of printed advice on finishing and various stages of the process.
Currently I have the following grits.
Black emery (I never use)
Brown Tripoli (fearful to use)
Red Rouge (Haven't tried)
White diamond
green diamond

[DocAitch]

I am presently finishing my stems up to 1000. 320-400-600-800-1000.. I use these grits wet.
I finish shaping up to that point with a #2 file.
I start polishing with Tripoli , then White Diamond.
The speed of your buff is critical for a good stem finish. I initially used a cheap Chinese buffer that ran at 3450 rpm and used 6" wheels. Later I tried a salvaged sump pump motor at 1725 rpm with 4" wheels .(a ~70% reduction in surface speed) with much better results. I also use the Beall buff system with the sump pump motor. This the way to go until I build a dedicated buffing machine with variable speeds via step pulleys.
It is not infrequent that I polish the stem and find scratches. In that case I go back as far as I have to to get the scratch out- often back to to a file.
It takes a bit of experimentation to get where you want. Your tedious sanding up to 12000 is probably a waste of time.
I hope this helps. I can send some photos of my buff rig if you want.
DocAitch

[shikano53]

That is very helpful. I just have a small, Canadian Tire variable speed sander wheel. A Harbor Freight machine is probably an American equivalent. I have various size wheels that I use for different purposes. All the wheels that I currently use for pipe polishing are 6" wheels. I will look into the Beall buffing system.
It's lowest speed is 2000rpm and it's highest speed is 3400rpm. I always use it at it's lowest setting.
It's not a true variable speed tool since it is just a rheostat (resistor) instead of an actual Variac voltage regulator to vary the rpm so it heats up considerably and I end up turning it off to let it cool down. If you have time to send/post pictures that would be great but if it's a lot of work to do so don't sweat it. You've already helped me immensely with your suggestions and comments.