New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
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New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
When I realized that the Burr-King knife grinder I use would be worthless as a stem shaping tool if it only ran at max speed, I decided to get the rotary equivalent. A shaper/buffer that would slow down to virtually zero RPM without losing torque. (Or burning up, which is what happens if you try to slow down a single-phase motor with a rheostat.)
The catch was variable frequency drives only work with 3-phase motors, so just connecting one between an AC outlet and an existing single-phase motor isn't an option.
The catch with 3-phase bench buffers is that they are mostly an industrial market thing, so even the smallest of them is a chunk. (In this case, 54 pounds)
The catch with chunks is that they are also dimensionally larger, which means either a new bench or modifying the old one.
The problem with a new bench is they take up space, and I was fresh out.
The problem with modifying the old one is such endeavors are a solid-gold-plated pig bitch as a categorical thing. Lots of energy, cleverness, working upside-down, and variety of saws is required.
Since I am a hopelessly single-minded sort when it comes to chasing perfection, though, and having a variable speed shaper/buffer would let me do faster & better work, I was determined to git 'er done.
I'll let you all know exactly HOW awesome it is when I finish experimenting with discs & etc. There are roughly a billion varieties, not counting home-mades, so that will take a few weeks.
PS -- Since someone is bound to ask, I don't push work into discs, but support my left wrist and pull the work toward me with both hands while looking straight down at the light gap for alignment & etc. That's why the funny looking (to you guys) orientation of the machine, and also why the VFD is positioned where it is---so I can tune the speed while working, without changing body position.
The catch was variable frequency drives only work with 3-phase motors, so just connecting one between an AC outlet and an existing single-phase motor isn't an option.
The catch with 3-phase bench buffers is that they are mostly an industrial market thing, so even the smallest of them is a chunk. (In this case, 54 pounds)
The catch with chunks is that they are also dimensionally larger, which means either a new bench or modifying the old one.
The problem with a new bench is they take up space, and I was fresh out.
The problem with modifying the old one is such endeavors are a solid-gold-plated pig bitch as a categorical thing. Lots of energy, cleverness, working upside-down, and variety of saws is required.
Since I am a hopelessly single-minded sort when it comes to chasing perfection, though, and having a variable speed shaper/buffer would let me do faster & better work, I was determined to git 'er done.
I'll let you all know exactly HOW awesome it is when I finish experimenting with discs & etc. There are roughly a billion varieties, not counting home-mades, so that will take a few weeks.
PS -- Since someone is bound to ask, I don't push work into discs, but support my left wrist and pull the work toward me with both hands while looking straight down at the light gap for alignment & etc. That's why the funny looking (to you guys) orientation of the machine, and also why the VFD is positioned where it is---so I can tune the speed while working, without changing body position.
UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.
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Re: New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
Figure it out so I can come over with a box of pipes to shape!!
Am I Calamity Jane or Annie Oakley??...depends on the day.
www.ladybriar.com
www.ladybriar.com
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Re: New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
BULL 'NURE!!!!! We all know you're gonna be making pipes. I knew it as soon as you bought that lathe. The stem story is just a cover so fess-up.
All BSing aside, nice rig.
All BSing aside, nice rig.
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Re: New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
Damn, woman, you're almost as bossy as DaisyCat.scotties22 wrote:Figure it out so I can come over with a box of pipes to shape!!
Shaping stummels in a reasonable time takes some serious grittage. Most guys use 36 at 3600 rpm. The meanest wheel I have is around 100, and as big as it is the new machine only spins at 1800 max. (I got it to go s-l-o-w with fine grits for stems)
That, plus having only a dust collector and not a billion-CFM sand-size-particle collector, would make pipe shaping either a tedious or extra-messy affair, I'm afraid.
UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.
Re: New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
Only one way to find out for sure!
My shaping wheel only goes to 1800 rpm... might explain my annual (non)production rate...
My shaping wheel only goes to 1800 rpm... might explain my annual (non)production rate...
Andrew
www.andrewstaplespipes.com
www.andrewstaplespipes.com
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Re: New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
No worries....I'll take all the extra briar off with my 36 grit disc before I get there. See?? I can be helpful when I want to.LatakiaLover wrote:Damn, woman, you're almost as bossy as DaisyCat.scotties22 wrote:Figure it out so I can come over with a box of pipes to shape!!
Shaping stummels in a reasonable time takes some serious grittage. Most guys use 36 at 3600 rpm. The meanest wheel I have is around 100, and as big as it is the new machine only spins at 1800 max. (I got it to go s-l-o-w with fine grits for stems)
That, plus having only a dust collector and not a billion-CFM sand-size-particle collector, would make pipe shaping either a tedious or extra-messy affair, I'm afraid.
Am I Calamity Jane or Annie Oakley??...depends on the day.
www.ladybriar.com
www.ladybriar.com
Re: New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
You will love having a vfd George. Congratulations! Looks great (just like we would expect).
Andrew
www.andrewstaplespipes.com
www.andrewstaplespipes.com
Re: New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
Looks a nice setup. I spent a long time thinking about variable speed and even ran several versions over the years, I also always thought big motor was better. As time progressed though I found that I need just one speed and less power. I now run a 1/3rd HP motor at 3000rpm and that's pretty much all I use for shaping. Of course this isn't for everyone but for me it works great and I notice no loss of efficiency. The only thing I could say is a downside on the current motor is that it isn't rated for continuous use so after a long shaping session it starts to get pretty hot. Luckily though the time for it to reach this stage is pretty much the same time it takes me to get bored and a stiff neck so I stop and do something else for a while.
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Re: New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
10-4. I'm not sure how much advantage a slow disc set-up would be for a practiced & skilled pipemaker. Probably not much. Maybe none at all.caskwith wrote:Looks a nice setup. I spent a long time thinking about variable speed and even ran several versions over the years, I also always thought big motor was better. As time progressed though I found that I need just one speed and less power. I now run a 1/3rd HP motor at 3000rpm and that's pretty much all I use for shaping. Of course this isn't for everyone but for me it works great and I notice no loss of efficiency. The only thing I could say is a downside on the current motor is that it isn't rated for continuous use so after a long shaping session it starts to get pretty hot. Luckily though the time for it to reach this stage is pretty much the same time it takes me to get bored and a stiff neck so I stop and do something else for a while.
In repair, though, especially for someone like me who makes a lot of replacement stems for higher-grade stuff where the shank can't be touched, getting the stem LEVEL with the shank is the time killer. Doing that truly right (see my "gleam lines" thread on the stems board) means more than leaving a tape-thickness step down from stem to shank and then fudging that away somehow. Retaining "gleam line" geometry requires making the ENTIRE STEM a tape-thickness smaller everywhere it needs to be smaller. That means hand work. And lots of hand work means both slow and "RSI/carpal tunnel syndrome has its sights on you".
In terms of coordination and fine muscle control, I'm as good as I ever was, and can still deal with thousandths by eye. All I needed was something less aggressive to touch material against. High grit paper at full speed just loads and varnishes/burns, meaning the only alternative was going slower. 2000 or 2500 grit at, say, 150 rpm, and I think I could put facets on a diamond. 800 at 150 rpm, and I know I can level a stem flush while barely clouding the wax on the shank. (How do I know? I've been doing it all morning. )
UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.
Re: New VFD-controlled shaper/buffer
Oh yeah, I probably should have added that the tools and techniques are different in our cases, I really wanted to post a counterpoint just in case any new pipemakers here were thinking that a slow motor is a must have tool for pipe making, when in reality it is probably of very limited use.LatakiaLover wrote:10-4. I'm not sure how much advantage a slow disc set-up would be for a practiced & skilled pipemaker. Probably not much. Maybe none at all.caskwith wrote:Looks a nice setup. I spent a long time thinking about variable speed and even ran several versions over the years, I also always thought big motor was better. As time progressed though I found that I need just one speed and less power. I now run a 1/3rd HP motor at 3000rpm and that's pretty much all I use for shaping. Of course this isn't for everyone but for me it works great and I notice no loss of efficiency. The only thing I could say is a downside on the current motor is that it isn't rated for continuous use so after a long shaping session it starts to get pretty hot. Luckily though the time for it to reach this stage is pretty much the same time it takes me to get bored and a stiff neck so I stop and do something else for a while.
In repair, though, especially for someone like me who makes a lot of replacement stems for higher-grade stuff where the shank can't be touched, getting the stem LEVEL with the shank is the time killer. Doing that truly right (see my "gleam lines" thread on the stems board) means more than leaving a tape-thickness step down from stem to shank and then fudging that away somehow. Retaining "gleam line" geometry requires making the ENTIRE STEM a tape-thickness smaller everywhere it needs to be smaller. That means hand work. And lots of hand work means both slow and "RSI/carpal tunnel syndrome has its sights on you".
In terms of coordination and fine muscle control, I'm as good as I ever was, and can still deal with thousandths by eye. All I needed was something less aggressive to touch material against. High grit paper at full speed just loads and varnishes/burns, meaning the only alternative was going slower. 2000 or 2500 grit at, say, 150 rpm, and I think I could put facets on a diamond. 800 at 150 rpm, and I know I can level a stem flush while barely clouding the wax on the shank. (How do I know? I've been doing it all morning. )
I bet the control possible with this setup is really awesome, I know that having a slow speed available on my belt grinder makes a HUGE difference since that is my main tool for roughing out a stem.