# 7 what can improve on

[WillAndersonpipes]

Hey guys I'm just starting out and this is my seventh pipe. i could really use some feed back from experienced pipe makers on what I could improve on to get me going in the right direction. thanks guys.

[LatakiaLover]

That's the best seventh pipe posted in a while. Good job.

Looks like the blade portion of the stem doesn't taper much (if at all) and is quite thick. Slimmer and sleeker would both look better and be more comfortable.

The slot itself is a bit rough & inconsistently shaped, and left unpolished. Getting that squared away is mostly a tools and technique thing... you obviously have the hand/eye coordination and control to do it consistently once you know how it's done.

The bite zone and button aren't visible because you're grabbing the pipe there, but going off the previous things I'd guess they probably have the "standard shortcomings" of early attempts. For those, you need to watch this:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8600

As for the stummel, I'll leave discussing that to she Shapemeister Crew. They are as fussy about briar lines, flow, mass balance, symmetry, and so forth as I am about vulcanite/acrylic ones. (Just be sure to decline any invitations to show your pipe to Sasquatch in person. The board's been quiet lately---new guys keep disappearing---and he's been unusually cheerful. You do the math.)

[WillAndersonpipes]

yeah i realized just after this pipe i need some work on my stems this one seemed way to thick to me and i have also learned since finishing this pipe that i want a nice crisp edege on the back of the button and a nice right angle where the button meets the stem. up until i finished this pipe i had been focusing mostly on my stummels but now i realize how important getting the stems perfect are. I was really happy with this stummell but this stem really takes away from it.

How do you go about buffing the inside of your stems?

[LatakiaLover]

How do you go about buffing the inside of your stems?

Clamp one end of a churchwarden-length pipe cleaner vertically in a bench vise, pull the other end up and tight with one hand, and scrub a bar of red compound on it with the other hand until you see some color.

Thread the stem---slot pointing up---over the cleaner, pull it tight again, and while holding the stem in a pinch-grip at the bite zone, slide it up and down the cleaner, tilting the stem, varying the tension, and etc. until the funnel is all nice-n-shiny.

CHECK FREQUENTLY, though, because it will definitely cut / groove the slot in ugly ways when the angle or tension isn't right. Takes a bit of practice, in other words, but is stupid-fast and efficient once you get the hang of it.

[JMG]

One other thing about the stem that is sticking out to me is that its flare near the shank seems to have a larger gap between itself and the shank on the bottom than on the top (I hope that makes sense.) That being the case it makes me think that the mortise may not be drilled at precisely the correct angle. Then again I could just be seeing things wrong. Lastly, and this just falls to my personal taste, I think the pipe would look much better without the swoop on the top of the bowl. That aside though, I agree with George, it's a great seventh pipe and you should be proud.

[WillAndersonpipes]

That's the best seventh pipe posted in a while. Good job.

Looks like the blade portion of the stem doesn't taper much (if at all) and is quite thick. Slimmer and sleeker would both look better and be more comfortable.

The slot itself is a bit rough & inconsistently shaped, and left unpolished. Getting that squared away is mostly a tools and technique thing... you obviously have the hand/eye coordination and control to do it consistently once you know how it's done.

The bite zone and button aren't visible because you're grabbing the pipe there, but going off the previous things I'd guess they probably have the "standard shortcomings" of early attempts. For those, you need to watch this:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8600

As for the stummel, I'll leave discussing that to she Shapemeister Crew. They are as fussy about briar lines, flow, mass balance, symmetry, and so forth as I am about vulcanite/acrylic ones. (Just be sure to decline any invitations to show your pipe to Sasquatch in person. The board's been quiet lately---new guys keep disappearing---and he's been unusually cheerful. You do the math.)

Haha I just watched the video you posted. This is the video that I found right after I finished this pipe, I was trying to figure out what was off with my stem. This is a really informative video the stem on the pipe Im currently making will hopefully reflect that.

[oklahoma red]

An addendum to George's technique on polishing the inside of the stem. If you are not VERY careful you can do grievous damage to the mouth of the tenon as you are changing the angle of attack to polish the funnel. In perusing pics on the internet of other people's stem techniques you will often see them doing file work with the stem's tenon stuck in a piece of round dowel. This makes the stem a lot easier to hold while you are filing away and it helps prevent hand cramping. Said dowel can also be held in vise if you wish. Now, if you bore the hole all the way thru the handle it can now also be used during the internal polishing to prevent damage to the mouth of the tenon. Any potential damage is now transferred to the opening at the end of the handle. A drawback in using such a handle (depending on its length) with a churchwarden cleaner is that you're not going to have much stroke (tho I'm told George is a real pro at "short stroking").
To get around this I use a coil spring (lots of coils with small diameter wire unless your aiming to build your arm up). I attach the spring to a hook in the wall behind my vise. I bore-sighted the location of the hook so that it lines up with the bore of the stem when the holder is clamped in the vise. In lieu of a long cleaner I use a shoe string. Grease it up and thread it thru the stem and give'er hell. I also use this set up with Mitchell abrasive cords which make very short work of internal forming and sanding of the funnel. With the right spring you can get a foot or more of stroke (no comment George, it would be a lie).

[fiddlestix]

A really nice pipe, especially for #7!! The stem comments George made are the most obvious things. In regards to the stummel, I would agree that the swoop on the rim is at least a little exaggerated. I really don't want to rehash the over bent/under bent debate, but I think the stem is over bent... I think you could relax the bend a little and still be perpindicular to the chamber. The only other comment I would make is about the symmetry. From the top view, the pipe appears to be drifting off to the right a little. I struggle with this one too, sometimes. I like to shine a light on the wall and hold the pipe up behind the light so I'm looking at the silhouette and don't have grain or sanding marks messing with my eyes. Check multiple times from every possible angle.
Keep up the good work!!

[WillAndersonpipes]

Thanks a lot for all the advice guys. I really appreciate it

[PremalChheda]

A good start. This shape has a lot going on. I think you may benefit from making a more simple shape. Not necessarily a classic, but just simpler lines so you can focus on dialing in the smaller details.

[WillAndersonpipes]

A good start. This shape has a lot going on. I think you may benefit from making a more simple shape. Not necessarily a classic, but just simpler lines so you can focus on dialing in the smaller details.
Post Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 4:16 am

Thanks. I'll be posting one soon that I just finished that has a much more simple shape and I'd love some feed back on it. The stem on my next one should be way better