Taig Problem

ScoJo · Post by **ScoJo** » Mon May 23, 2005 12:44 pm

Ever since I got my Taig, I have had trouble trying to dial in the diameter of my tenons. It seems that there is a certain part of the range of the dial where it seems to turn too freely (i.e. will "wander" away from the number that I dial in). Has anyone else had this problem, and if so how did you fix it? I am getting tired of holding that dial with one hand while I cut with the other and it can't be very accurate to do it this way.

NvilleDave · Post by **NvilleDave** » Mon May 23, 2005 2:07 pm

ScoJo wrote:Ever since I got my Taig, I have had trouble trying to dial in the diameter of my tenons. It seems that there is a certain part of the range of the dial where it seems to turn too freely (i.e. will "wander" away from the number that I dial in). Has anyone else had this problem, and if so how did you fix it? I am getting tired of holding that dial with one hand while I cut with the other and it can't be very accurate to do it this way.

Mine was acting the same--and I'm assuming you're talking about the cross-slide. The taig cross-slide (CS) will have some movement in it (slop) since it "rides" on a threaded rod. After looking at it I decided to tighten the dovetail so that it wasn't sloppy... in other words it doesn't move unless I adjust the dial.

If you have the parts breakdown, look at part number 100-19. There are three allen screws on the righthand side of the CS that adjust the interference on the dovetail. I ever so gently tightened those three allen screws so that the CS doesn't move without input. That should help. If none of this makes sense shoot me an email.

Dave

ScoJo · Post by **ScoJo** » Mon May 23, 2005 2:57 pm

Thanks for the reply, Dave. Yes, I am referring to the cross slide. I tried to explain what was happening in an email to the dealer but apparently I could not get my point across. I will try this when I get home (I am traveling for work this week). So you only had this "slop" in part of the dial range (i.e. 35-45)? Would that make sense? This has been a problem since I first received the unit, so I was checking with him to see if there was any defect I might be suffering from. I guess I thought it would "tighten up" over time (no idea why I thought this), but I have hacked through about 5 tenons (about 2 successfully) and it doesn't seem to be changing at all.

LexKY_Pipe · Post by **LexKY_Pipe** » Mon May 23, 2005 5:39 pm

I'd like to hear from Tyler on this issue. He uses a Taig on the videos he produced.

NvilleDave · Post by **NvilleDave** » Mon May 23, 2005 10:08 pm

ScoJo wrote:Thanks for the reply, Dave. Yes, I am referring to the cross slide. I tried to explain what was happening in an email to the dealer but apparently I could not get my point across.

If you're not able to get help from the dealer you may try and contact Nick Carter;
http://www.cartertools.com/

Unless of course, this is where you got your unit from.

ScoJo wrote:So you only had this "slop" in part of the dial range (i.e. 35-45)? Would that make sense?

No the "play" that I have runs through the entire range of the dial (feed screw) and amounts to .002 or so. Its hard to explain I guess... the knob deflects .002 or so before the slide actually moves... does that make sense. I only tightened my slide (I think it's called the gib strip) to the point where it didn't move unless I made an input which is how you want it to be anyway--you don't want it to move uncommanded.

On my JET (BD920) I can adjust the feed screw so there isn't any end float. The Taig may have that type adjustment but I haven't found it. Nick Carter would definetly know.

Hope that helps and good luck.

NvilleDave · Post by **NvilleDave** » Mon May 23, 2005 10:22 pm

ScoJo I just found a page that may offer some help... if anything atleast you'll know the nomenclature. It covers setup pretty well.

http://www.cartertools.com/setup.html

Dave

ScoJo · Post by **ScoJo** » Tue May 24, 2005 8:20 am

I emailed Nick (I bought mine from him). I tried to explain what was happening, and in the end we ended up deciding it would be best for me to send the carriage assembly to him for inspection and adjustment. I managed to talk my lovely wife through the process of removing the assembly and removing the toolpost from it and she's boxing it up and sending it off for me (I'm on a business trip). That way I minimize my down time. Isn't she great?

:thumb:

I'll let you know what happens.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Tue May 24, 2005 9:13 am

Man, you got a keep there Scott.

NvilleDave · Post by **NvilleDave** » Tue May 24, 2005 11:20 am

LexKY_Pipe wrote:I'd like to hear from Tyler on this issue. He uses a Taig on the videos he produced.

Don't worry... I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night! :thumb:

Post by **Tyler** » Tue May 24, 2005 2:56 pm

LexKY_Pipe wrote:I'd like to hear from Tyler on this issue. He uses a Taig on the videos he produced.

Both of the dials on my Taig turn very freely. I am a tool idiot though, and never even think to repair of make adjustment to them. I am too focused on the task at hand and I just adapt. It is an inefficient method, I'm sure.

At any rate, I simply "clamp" the dials in place by grabbing the bed of the lathe, and firmly holding the dial in place with my thumb. I do this every time and completely by habit. If I didn't do this, I would turn tapered tenons because the dial that I was not turning would gradually allow the tool to be pushed away from the rod. By clamping the dial in place, the tenon stays at the proper diameter for the length of the tenon.

Tyler

magruder · Post by **magruder** » Tue May 24, 2005 8:23 pm

At any rate, I simply "clamp" the dials in place by grabbing the bed of the lathe, and firmly holding the dial in place with my thumb. I do this every time and completely by habit.

The man is at one with his tool.

MitchG · Post by **MitchG** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 7:26 pm

I always encounter a bit of "take-up" in the cross-slide on my Atlas 6" lathe; hardly surprising, as it's about 50 years old. However, there's often a couple of thousandths worth of slop in the lead screw of most cross-slides, in my experience. Especially on smaller, older or Taiwanese machines. I get around it by tightening the gib adjusters so that there's a bit of friction between the slide and base (not too much, just enough to hold it). That way, as long as the lead screw is snugged up to the slide body (pressing "in"), it will stay in place without intervention. Remember to back off and adjust "in" to the workpiece to keep the lead screw up tight against the cross-slide body.

Hope that helps.

Mitch

stdly · Post by **stdly** » Tue Jun 14, 2005 5:30 pm

All good Ideas just thought I would add this!
Yes you will always have some backlash. Be sure to always use the handles in the same direction, if you have to back away a bit, try backing out more past the backlash then turn back in to the desired cut. On a big lathe if you do not take up this backlash it can kick back, dangerous and you start again? The thread that drives the cross feed has to be tight to the cut and this happens only as you turn the screw/handle in, if you have backed off and in again without taking up this backlash you will not get an accurate cut. Trust the increments on the Taig dial they are correct. When you move .005 on the dial it will cut .010 off the diameter I have tested this many times with a dial indicator and it is pretty dam good. But on a tenon .002 can make or break a fit.
As far as the travel too and from the chuck, there is a piece of tubing that holds the handle/gear in place to the rack. This tube has an off center hole and a small set screw to hold it in place. You can loosen the set screw and the tube can be rotated and relock to take up play between then gear and rack. Don't over tighten this it will cause unnecessary wear. And again always take up any backlash if possible.

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