Precise drilling of briar on a drilling machine. Part 2.

For discussion of the drilling and shaping of the stummel.
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Odissey
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Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2020 2:34 am
Location: Russia, Moscow

Precise drilling of briar on a drilling machine. Part 2.

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The hole for the flue duct has been drilled. We take out the block from the vice and, using a square and a vernier caliper, mark the center of the hole for the tobacco chamber.
Photo 14. Hole marking.
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We clamp the briar in a vice and use a square to place it strictly perpendicular to the jaws of the vice.
Photo 15.
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Next, moving the briar, we set it strictly in the center of the drill and drill a hole for the tobacco chamber.
The exact drilling depth is determined by measuring it with a vernier caliper. On each drilling machine there are marks by which you can accurately determine the depth to which the drill entered. It is not necessary to wrap the drill with insulating tape, it is very difficult for the chip to exit from the drill.
Photo 16.
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During the first pass, I usually do not complete the hole by 1.5 - 2 mm. Then I move the briar away from the drill and visually determine how well the drilling is going.
Photo 17
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In the presence of two coordinate vices, there is no problem to move the briar to the side to see everything and if the result is not yet satisfactory to you, return the briar to its place strictly in the center of the drill.
We drill so that the bottom of the tobacco chamber is not lower than the bottom of the tobacco channel. The last check to confirm that you have done everything correctly is performed on the briar clamped in a vice. It is necessary to insert a pipe cleaning brush into the smoke channel, it should pass freely into the tobacco chamber and not get stuck at the entrance to it.
photo 18. The brush in the tobacco chamber.
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All holes are drilled.
As you can see, everything turned out perfect.
Photo 19. Opening of the tobacco chamber.
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I have drilled more than 20 tubes on this machine. The result is always perfect. Using the drilling technique that I described to you, I have never been mistaken.
When I finish working with briar on a drilling machine, I usually mill the outline of the pipe on it. You can get such a contour using a band saw or a French wheel. But I don't have a band saw. And there will be a lot of dust from the French wheel.
No dust when milling. I just clean the small shavings with a brush. Milling is not a fast process. This pipe took about 40 to 45 minutes.
Photo 20
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A few words about the drills I use.
Here is a wood drill set purchased for about $ 5 from a home improvement store.
Photo 21. Drills for wood.
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These drills, due to their profile, are specially designed for woodworking. These drills practically do not move away from the drilling axis, they give a smoother hole surface. There is only one drawback - they cannot be sharpened on their own, but at a price of $ 0.5 per piece, you can throw out the old one and buy a new one for yourself.
I usually use 4 mm to drill the smoke duct. Drills with diameters of 9 - 10 mm are needed to drill holes for installing the stem. 5 - 6 mm drills are needed to install the stainless tube inverse spike.

When drilling a smoke channel with a wood drill, I usually stop drilling 4 - 5 mm, to the depth I need. The remaining 4 - 5 mm I drill with a conventional twist drill bit for metal with a diameter of 4 mm. This is necessary in order to form the correct profile of the joint between the tobacco chamber and the smoke channel.
I drill the tobacco chamber with ordinary metal twist drills. I bought myself 3 drills with diameters of 18 - 19 - 20 mm for $ 40.
Photo 22 Drill for a tobacco camera.
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I sharpened all the drills a little differently. I changed the sharpening angle from 120 - 127 degrees to 90 degrees everywhere. The twist drill is quite moody and can start scratching the briar at the bottom of the chamber. To prevent this from happening, you need to cut off the sharp edges formed at the junction of the cylindrical and conical parts of the drill. Cut so that instead of a sharp edge there is a radius transition from a conical to a cylindrical surface. A 5mm radius will suffice.
Such a drill gives me an almost polished surface of the tobacco chamber, which does not need any further processing. But I still have to sandpaper it. My minimum machine speed is 500 rpm. At this speed of rotation of the large diameter drill, the briar burns slightly and becomes noticeably brown. Therefore, you have to remove this color.
What you get will depend on your skills and ability to sharpen the drills.

Working with a two-axis vise greatly simplifies drilling on a drilling machine and makes it safe.
Again, never use a drilling machine to mill metal. This is very, very dangerous for your life and health.

Good luck with your work.

Best regards, Odissey
Flygare
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2019 6:29 am

Re: Precise drilling of briar on a drilling machine. Part 2.

Post by Flygare »

A very good guide Odissey! Thank you for taking the time to make it. I am sure it will be very useful.


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Odissey
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Re: Precise drilling of briar on a drilling machine. Part 2.

Post by Odissey »

Flygare wrote: Wed Jul 29, 2020 4:00 am A very good guide Odissey! Thank you for taking the time to make it. I am sure it will be very useful.


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Thank you for taking the time to read this!
I want to warn everyone who loves homemade products and dreams of a self-made milling machine. You should not expect that a drilling machine can be easily converted into a milling machine like that. Yes, you can buy a professional XY table. Among them there are quite inexpensive ones. But my opinion is that the rigidity of this drilling machine is not enough to carry out a full-fledged work with metal. Moreover, it will never have a third axis. When lifting or lowering, the movable plate rotates around the support column, which makes it impossible to work with the third axis. And without a third axis, it's no longer a milling machine.
However, if you manage to find a drilling machine with good rigidity and a non-rotating movable plate, this option has a right to exist.


Good luck with your work.

Best regards, Odissey
JR_Spain
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2022 12:57 pm

Re: Precise drilling of briar on a drilling machine. Part 2.

Post by JR_Spain »

Good morning Odyssey!

The photos are missing and can not be accessed. Would it be possible to solve it? I am very interested in having a look. Thanks!

All the best,

Juan
DocAitch
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Re: Precise drilling of briar on a drilling machine. Part 2.

Post by DocAitch »

Yes- can you replace these iimages?
DocAitch
"Hettinger, if you stamp 'hand made' on a dog turd, some one will buy it."
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
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