Billiard #3

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Bniesen
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Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2017 11:22 am

Billiard #3

Post by Bniesen »

My third billiard, I feel like the bowl could have been 1/3 larger and the overall proportion would be better.

Fire away.









Thanks,
Ben
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Bniesen
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Re: Billiard #3

Post by Bniesen »

Additional images
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sandahlpipe
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Re: Billiard #3

Post by sandahlpipe »

The profile is close, but you need more "chin" to make it a billiard. The bottom third of the bowl needs a bit more girth all the way around. The stummel proportions are actually close enough. Your rim isn't symmetrical.

But the part you should focus on next is the stem. It looks like you don't have a proper funnel in the airway. Widen out that slot to open up the draw. Also, spend a little bit of time sanding the airway smooth, especially on a translucent stem like this. Make the line from behind the button to the stem/shank junction a dead flat taper, not with a convex curve. While it may be comfortable to smoke, it looks like a premold stem. The button looks rather rectangular instead of oval. And it seems to be thick in the bite zone. The stem also looks a bit too long.
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mightysmurf8201
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Re: Billiard #3

Post by mightysmurf8201 »

I would also add that the walls of the bowl are too thin. To correct this for next time, either drill a smaller chamber, or increase the overall size of the pipe. You are making progress. Keep it up.
#shellaclivesmatter

Emmanuel Atilano
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Bniesen
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Re: Billiard #3

Post by Bniesen »

Got it, ill work on those changes on the next one. How thick should the bite zone be? This one is 0.155.
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sandahlpipe
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Re: Billiard #3

Post by sandahlpipe »

I shoot for about 3.5mm or .13. But it's not only that dimension that accounts for comfort.
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DocAitch
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Re: Billiard #3

Post by DocAitch »

It looks like you used a plain straight bit for your airway.
Most folks are using a 5/32" or 9/64" fuller bit (tapered, for boat building, keeps the profile of the screw) to about 3/4" from the button, then a straight 1/16" to the end, then use one of several methods of create your funnel and slot. You can use the slot cutter bit that you used for a guiding profile of the slot, but then need to use a drill bit, mill bit, or funneling tool to create the funnel.
VF has both the fuller bits and the funneling tool/saw.
The funnel is flattish and ideally not much thicker/wider than 1/16" and allows you to slim down the bite area with less chance (and fear) of cutting through when you are finishing.
DocAitch
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DocAitch
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Re: Billiard #3

Post by DocAitch »

The object of cutting a funnel is to keep the cross sectional area of the airway as close to the same in all areas of the airway. For instance the cross sectional area is a circle at the tenon, becomes an oval at the junction of the fuller bit and 1/16" bit, and is a round ended rectangle at the button. The cross sections should be similar in area and blended smoothly. The funnel saw/tool is what helps you accomplish that bending.
The functional result is a reduction of turbulence at different cross sections with a resulting reduction or elimination of condensation.
DocAitch
"Hettinger, if you stamp 'hand made' on a dog turd, some one will buy it."
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy
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Sasquatch
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Re: Billiard #3

Post by Sasquatch »

DocAitch wrote:The object of cutting a funnel is to keep the cross sectional area of the airway as close to the same in all areas of the airway. For instance the cross sectional area is a circle at the tenon, becomes an oval at the junction of the fuller bit and 1/16" bit, and is a round ended rectangle at the button. The cross sections should be similar in area and blended smoothly. The funnel saw/tool is what helps you accomplish that bending.
The functional result is a reduction of turbulence at different cross sections with a resulting reduction or elimination of condensation.
DocAitch
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