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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 10:50 am
Posts: 107
I made another billiard. And I tried to incorporate all of the feedback and comments from my previous Lovat post. I really tried to concentrate on keeping tight, straight lines.
You can see what I use as a straightedge in some of the pics. I took too much of the front of the bowl as you would be holding the pipe in your mouth. Too much flat. And there is a flaw on the rim that developed as it was on the lathe. My airhole drilling this time was off considerably as well.
Any and all comments welcome.
Thanks folks.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 8:49 pm
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Location: Zimmerman, MN
1. There are some scratches on the front of the bowl that you can see in the finish.
2. The billiard should have a "belly" in that the fattest part of the bowl should be in the middle. Your fattest part is about 2/3 up the side of the bowl. If anything, adjust it towards the bottom.
3. The bowl/shank junction is too big a radius.
4. Focus on symmetry. The left and right sides of the bowl don't match each other.

I also suspect there's some tearout on the shank face that's causing the stem to fit with a gap.

Keep working at it. A proper billiard takes a while to learn.

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Jeremiah Sandahl
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 7:58 pm 
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Thanks Jeremiah, I appreciate the comments.
As per usual, copied, pasted and printed.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:05 pm
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sandahlpipe wrote:
......Focus on symmetry...... Keep working at it. A proper billiard takes a while to learn.


High on the importance list for a billiard is symmetry. Slow down and take a look at the pipe from different angles and imagine the shape you want it to be to determine where material needs to come off. When you get it close, close your eyes and feel the pipe. Turn it around and feel the curves of every surface. You'll be surprised what you "see" with your eyes closed.

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Wayne Teipen
Teipen Handmade Briar Pipes
http://www.teipenpipes.com


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2015 12:44 am
Posts: 569
It appears that the bowl shank junction goes straight down. It should curve forward to define the rear bottom of the bowl as a portion of a sphere. You haven’t posted a bottom shot but I suspect that this would show better.
The stem shank junction also shows a gap, possibly because it wasn’t pushed together properly.
DocAitch

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" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 12:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2016 10:50 am
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Thanks folks, I believe mastering traditional shapes is an extremely important key to master and I'm finding out that at first blush, it isn't easy. I feel considerably like a real dumb ass at my naivete when I first started.
Wayne, thanks man for that piece of good advice. I will try that. What I find helps, is to take a few pictures and then print them out. The mistakes really glare at me when I do that.
Doc, I'm still struggling with that particular junction. However I started working on another billiard and used my scraper this time and then sandpaper up to 400grit and the join in question is very nice. No daylight, no gap.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 11:03 pm 
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Posts: 569
I used to mark the face of the shank with some marker or ink on the face of the stem and shave it off with a knife. I also occasionally use a cylinder with a tenon sized pilot and sand paper glued to the face of the cylinder.
This does require a lathe to face and drill the cylinder.
A counterbore with a proper sized pilot will also cut a nice shank face if you are careful.
DocAitch%

_________________
"Hettinger, if you stamp 'hand made' on a dog turd, some one will buy it."
-Charles Hollyday, pipe maker, reluctant mentor, and curmudgeon
" Never show an idiot an unfinished pipe!"- same guy


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