Oxidized vulcanite stems

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LexKY_Pipe
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Oxidized vulcanite stems

Post by LexKY_Pipe »

Just got some decent estate pipes from an uncle. Several have vulcanite stems that are pretty oxidized.

What process do you guys use to clean and treat oxidized vulcanite stems?
Craig

From the heart of the Blue Grass.
Lexington, KY

loscalzo.pipes@gmail.com
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Karol
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Post by Karol »

interestingly, this morning i found a thread on pipes.org dealing with the same problem. bleach seems to be the answer.

http://forum.pipes.org/discus/messages/ ... 1154455265

sorry for cross forum posting... :oops:

/karol
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ToddJohnson
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Re: Oxidized vulcanite stems

Post by ToddJohnson »

LexKY_Pipe wrote:Just got some decent estate pipes from an uncle. Several have vulcanite stems that are pretty oxidized.

What process do you guys use to clean and treat oxidized vulcanite stems?
Use warm water and a Mr. Clean "Magic Eraser." They're available at any home improvement store. Give this a shot before the bleach.

Best,

Todd
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Nick
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Post by Nick »

Cool tip! Thanks Todd.

Hey, how's that little boy doing now days? He's gotta be like 18 months now right? Man, they are so much fun at that age. Mine are getting so big. Last night my little 8 year old girl asked me what a tampond is. EEEK! But, I remained calm and explained to her what the deal was. Although it was very tempting to tell her to ask her mother. LOL.
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Heinz_D
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Post by Heinz_D »

If the channels are O.K. - as far as you can see - I would prefer to try anything else than chemicals. :D

My first way to clean oxidized stems is with files and steel wool... Use a file, if the oxidization is too heavy and carefully grind as long as ther are no more issues, then use steelwool 01, 00 and 000 with a little pressure to polish away the scratches from the file.

If it works just use only steel wool - it's a little bit more work then chemicals, but if you use bleach and other agressive chemicals it may happen that you solute something out of the material...

I also heared about using tooth paste and - brushes to clean vulcanit stems...

However, in Germany you can buy "ebonit super cleaner", seems to be something like a polish. It feels greasy and if ther are some particles in it, but it don't make any scratches and the stem looks very shiny after wipe off with a cloth.
Greetings from Germany,

Heinz_D
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LexKY_Pipe
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Post by LexKY_Pipe »

Gentlemen

Thanks for the advice. I'll try the steel wool first and then move to the more aggressive methods.

Again, thanks.
Craig

From the heart of the Blue Grass.
Lexington, KY

loscalzo.pipes@gmail.com
alexanderfrese
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Post by alexanderfrese »

I strongly second Heinz’ comments. Since most of the estates I restore are smoked by myself afterwards, I would not want any chemicals on the part I suck on, and if I sell them, I would not want that for anyone else.
In fact I never tried something else than sanding. I use paper on the round parts and those fingernail files on the button. The files do a good job to flatten some mild tooth marks or even let them disappear completely. To be honest: Worst case scenario was filing through to the airway once…
I do wet sanding, rinsing away all dust immediately, so you can see, when it is matt black, and there is no need to go any deeper. But be sure, that it really is black. I stopped too early on some pieces, and noticed some remaining green areas only when I was on the polishing wheel. That had me going back to step one.
To my experience, heavy oxidation requires to start with 600, sometimes even 400 grid to get rid of that oxidation layer. Then I work up to 1200 and steelwool to polish them on the wheel after all. Remember always to let the mouthpiece on the stummel when sanding to prevent the transition parts from rounding. This leeds to an amount of sanding the wooden shank, depending on the precision you put into this process. Might make some restaining necessary, if you don't want a lighter wood tone on the end of the shank.
I must admit that I am not quite happy with that time consuming process. But to say it again. I fear some residues (esp. in the mouthpiece’s airway) that cannot really be taken out after some bleaching process.
Alexander Frese
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Heinz_D
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Post by Heinz_D »

Another idea for cleaning mouthpieces: If you want to clean the airway, try a pipecleaner with some polish and use a drill machine to polish the airway by medium speed. Take care of the temperature! I only do it for 10-15 seconds and repeat it few times. Then clean the airway with alcohol and some pipecleaners by hand.

For the stem/shank transition: Sometimes it may help to tape the shank with thin abresive tape...
Greetings from Germany,

Heinz_D
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bvartist
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Post by bvartist »

A spiral sewn(firm) buff and emory compound usually does the trick! But I'm one for using power tools to do as much as I can. 8) You do have to be careful with the buff and compound, it will burn the vulcanite if you use too much pressure.

David
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LexKY_Pipe
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Post by LexKY_Pipe »

Does the emery compound come in just one grit or do you use a specific grit?
Craig

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bvartist
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Post by bvartist »

The only one I've used is the black compound and I think its 220 grit. Comes in a couple different grits and colors, black just seemed to be ideal for black stems. The few I've done I've taken the oxidation off with black compound and then buffed with tripoli and white diamond. Stems look like new!

David
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bvartist
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Post by bvartist »

Oops! forgot to mention, you can also use brown tripoli on the firm buff instead of emery compound. Doesn't remove the oxidation as fast but works fine!
alexanderfrese
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Post by alexanderfrese »

I never tried (I don't even have some) very coarse buffing compounds. I imagine it might be rather difficult to preserve fine edges on mouthpieces with those coarse grids on a wheel.
Sanding seems safer as far as I have much more control over the edges. Or am I completely going wrong?
Alexander Frese
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Heinz_D
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Post by Heinz_D »

alexanderfrese wrote:Or am I completely going wrong?
:D Not realy! In this case I second your opinion! I tried it on my first handcut stem and destroyed it by grinding to much material off the bit! You'll never get exactly into the corners without hurting the bit - and a sharp stepped and flat bit is what I want on the side to the stummel...
Greetings from Germany,

Heinz_D
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loosvelt
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Re: Oxidized vulcanite stems

Post by loosvelt »

I know this is an old post, but this stuff is the bomb digity.....

http://www.walkerbriarworks.com/html/st ... e_kit.html

Really works awesome, especially for people who don't have a buffer.
“He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.”- Nietzsche

Green Eyes, Black Rifles, and Briar Pipes....
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DMI
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Re: Oxidized vulcanite stems

Post by DMI »

The two part kit from Walkers does work but takes ages, the first paste is a polishing compound and the second a wax. I found it worked best used in conjunction with fine wire wool.

Another method is to make a paste of Bar Keepers Friend which is a non bleach based scouring powder, again it works best with fine wire wool.

Bleaching stems should be banned as the bleach corrodes the surface of the vulcanite and if left in to long will pit the surface, there is conjecture that it weakens the vulcanite causing it to become brittle.

One of the methods I used for a while I picked up from a musical instrument repairman, he would melt a bar of vonax in a saucepan and then soak a calico mop in the solution. Once out of the compound the mop was laid flat and allowed to cool, this creates a firm permantly compounded wheel.

David.
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Philthy
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Re: Oxidized vulcanite stems

Post by Philthy »

I have had very good results using toothpaste. There are probably going to be different results with different brands and although I have thought about it I have not done a comparison test.
I have had good results with the baking soda and peroxide type. Just wet the stem, get a dab of toothpaste on a finger and rub back and forth over oxidation. add a bit of water if it feels too dry. wipe off with a wet paper towel. Apply more as needed, You can see the difference quickly in my experience but it is not too aggressive and no chemical leftover to concern yourself with. I follow up with carnauba on a wheel and achieve a nice lustrous glow. A finer grade of toothpaste (no baking soda) prior to the wax might achieve a high luster but I just havent gotten around to trying it.
vasco
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Re: Oxidized vulcanite stems

Post by vasco »

I've been using bleach with success.
I'd rather prefer to get some residue than catch some bug from the stem. In one step you remove the oxidation and make dam sure that the stem is biologically clean.
If using it pure than a bath of 15 or 30 minutes is enough, but it's better to mix it with the same quantity of water. Than you can let the stem soak in for a few hours.
Afterwards I clean the steam with running water and if I have the time I let it a few hours in water.
Then it's time for alcohol and a ton of pipe cleaners. The alcohol removes every trace of bleach odor and any leftover tar that at this time will be very soft.

At this point the stem will be very ugly but will be clean.
I usually then sand at 400 600 800 and 1000 and don't have to worry about sanding too much, just sand slow and carefully.
Than it's time for brown tripoli with a felt wheel, ___very___ carefully, a felt wheel can got very hot very fast.
White diamond and carnauba, it's done...

Alcohol and bleach are both good disinfectants, but using alcohol with pipe cleaners dramatically reduces contact time, because the alcohol will dry out very quickly. So, if you don't use bleach then you should give the stems an alcohol bath, overnight is not too much as the alcohol will not corrode the stem.
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Re: Oxidized vulcanite stems

Post by RonniB »

Using bleach and then alcohol to clean stems is redundant. Both are germ removal agents, but neither removes the oxidation. In fact, bleach leaves the oxidized remains of the germ cells it kills. Look it up. The only way to remove heavy vulcanite oxidation is with abrasion; scraping, filing, sanding, buffing and polishing. I have found that soaking stems overnight n a concentrated Oxi-Clean solution will soften the oxidation and internal tars for easier removal. After scrubbing the Oxi'd stems in clear water with a tooth brush, let them soak in clear water prior to scraping and sanding. The oxidation comes off much faster and smoother. Then, sand to 600 grit, buff and wax. Use the alcohol at whatever point in the process you prefer. 91% isopropyl alcohol is still available in pharmacies. 70% is less effective. This procedure is for heavily oxidized stems. Minor "hazed" oxidation can be remedied with proper buffer application. Just don't act like the stem is a car bumper being prepared for plating.
vasco
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Re: Oxidized vulcanite stems

Post by vasco »

RonniB wrote:Using bleach and then alcohol to clean stems is redundant. Both are germ removal agents, but neither removes the oxidation. In fact, bleach leaves the oxidized remains of the germ cells it kills. Look it up. The only way to remove heavy vulcanite oxidation is with abrasion; scraping, filing, sanding, buffing and polishing. I have found that soaking stems overnight n a concentrated Oxi-Clean solution will soften the oxidation and internal tars for easier removal. After scrubbing the Oxi'd stems in clear water with a tooth brush, let them soak in clear water prior to scraping and sanding. The oxidation comes off much faster and smoother. Then, sand to 600 grit, buff and wax. Use the alcohol at whatever point in the process you prefer. 91% isopropyl alcohol is still available in pharmacies. 70% is less effective. This procedure is for heavily oxidized stems. Minor "hazed" oxidation can be remedied with proper buffer application. Just don't act like the stem is a car bumper being prepared for plating.
I find out that only a little alcohol removes any bleach taste/smell left over. I just pass a wet pipe cleaner
The bleach corrodes the top layer and makes sanding much easier. After that I sand with 220, 440, 600 and 1000 (with water) and then brown and white component and finish with carnauba.

I'm very curious about Walker Briar Works Stem restore kit... damm... why they make it so easy to buy stuff over the net??? I just bought 1 kit 8-))), I'll let you know the results...
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