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Do you have a nylon wheel? I've found that helpful. Another way to do it - use a firm cotton wheel without any compound. That will remove enough to make it appear as if it's been held for years...........patina, if you will. I think the vintage patina Dunhills acquire is lovely. You could also light...

The countersink is a few thous. larger than the stem. You need a pin gage set and a counter sink tool (easily made) to do this.

There is a tenon. The mortise has been counter-sunk.

I like it a bunch! The blast looks very Dunhill-ish!

This happens when too hot.
Just go a little at a time, making sure it stays relatively cool.
Same goes for brass rings at the mortise. If you're too aggressive it will back out.

I like the pipe, but have a couple of thoughts. First, this has been covered and it's the bend. The other is regarding the embellishment. I believe it would have been better to have the wood embellishment on the stem, followed by a wafer of matching Ebonite. This way you can have the saddle thicknes...

Charl: as much as I respect your work, your criticism is pretty lame. why not just explain the problem and perhaps how to fix it? I see the issue...but your comment gets me nowhere. This is the kind of thing that underscores how helpful people like Jeremiah really are. That was a little harsh, but ...

clickklick wrote:Well. I'm sanding to 600 grit. Applying the stain, the shellac with da coat, the red trip, white dia, and finally carnuba buff.

I'm not familiar with doing it any other way at the moment.

Search finishing techniques.

If this is the under-coat, soak the sucker with stain. Then you can sand and/or buff.

oklahoma red wrote:Check out Jantzsupply.com in Davis, OK.

Red,
That did the trick! Thank you!
Also got one from Amazon.

Gentlemen, thank you!

Wanting to make a couple of knives for Christmas.
Where's the best place to buy quality blanks?
I want it easy, all I'm going to do is make the scales out of briar and ivory.
Amazon has some, but don't know about the qualityl
Any help would be appreciated.

Me too!

Either your mixture is not formulated correctly or there is something still sticking on the walls that is causing the bowl coat not to attach. Try sanding with p150 grit or less. I am mixing 50/50, is this correct? I am also sanding with 150 before the applying with q-tip. Thank you for replying. 5...

All gave wonderful advice.
As Jeremiah pointed out, the brass need Dremel attention. When you make it look like the platueau, that will be cool!

LatakiaLover wrote:W. T. F.

http://pipesmagazine.com/forums/topic/a ... laboration

George,
Is WTF for "Wow That's Fantastic"?
Did you do the stem design for them

Rbraniganpipes wrote:Does anyone recognize this company, or tell me if this might be a good deal to look into? I am wondering if the size of this lathe is large enough for what i would do in pipe making.

http://roanoke.craigslist.org/tls/5288367683.html

That would be good for stems. It's to small for pipes.

The center guide keeps them from wandering.

When doing a contrast stain, I never use USMC black due to the blue hue. Once I did this with yellow and ended up having to redo a green pipe!
I've had great luck with the oil based, it simply needs to dry for a day or two.
George, thanks for the tip on the Stew-Mac.

If you do a search for "Delta Midi Lathe" you will find there are 138 postings.
You might want to read those.
There is a wealth of knowledge within this site, all you have to do is use the search function.