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My pipe is rough shaped. I'll get the stem bent and sanded today. If all goes well it'll be off the blaster tomorrow and wrapped up by the weekend.

Welcome! If you can swing it you should drive up to the Kansas City Pipe Show September 21-23 at the Argosy in Riverside, MO. There will be quite a few carvers there and it's always a great time!

I'm trying to fit mine in. We'll see how it goes, but right now it's gonna be tough to get one done.

I like the bowl shape quite a bit. The bottom line of the pipe looks good. The top line (mid stem to button) needs a little more material removed. makes the stem look too fat through the bend. The best way to approach the top line is to actually have your shank taper from the bowl to the stem. It he...

Doug535 wrote:Scottie, I have not.

3rd Thursday of every month at Cigar & Tobac in O.P. You should come down and say hi.

Totally off topic, but have you ever come to a KC Club meeting?

Time to start working on your entries! Don't forget to post in progress and final pics of your entries. Please ask your customers/supporters to go to https://gkcpipeclub.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fcarvers-raffle-tickets to purchase Carvers Raffle Tickets. If you could tag your posts that will help ...

The Argosy is remodeling at the moment. For those that will be attending the show here is a link to book your room.

https://reservations.travelclick.com/13 ... D=2289051

I have to get mine started...maybe next week? I'll get one done before the deadline.

Motor: https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Motors/AC_Motors_-_General_Purpose_and_Inverter_Duty_(0.25_-_300HP)/AC_Motors,_General_Purpose-z-PE_Rolled_Steel,_IronHorse_0.33-3.0HP/3-Phase_Motors,_56C_(0.33_-_3HP)_TE,_Footed_Rigid/MTR2-P50-3BD18 VFD: https://www.automationdirect.com/a...

I personally try to make the side of the stem (at the button) be as wide as the slot. This isn't a very good pic of that, but you can see the sides are well defined. I think I know what you mean, but just so it's clear in my mind: Your aim is to make the thickness of the stem SIDE at the button is ...

I was there when it was filmed. I know exactly what's in it

RickB wrote:All I want is for my crease to shine like mad

You should really try to wash it on a regular basis. I've head that helps

Right behind your button isn't very crisp either. That and your button need to be a bit taller are making the stem look fat as well.

I can't find the link (didn't look very hard), but watch George's video about sanding and finishing the stem right behind the button.

What is throwing the lines of the stem off is that the blade looks flat from side to side and the sides of the stem aren't well defined. You don't want to be able to cut your lip with the sides, but they need to be really well defined or it makes you stem look fat. This is especially important on a ...

I really think we need to get you set up Lee Von Erk Style with cams at every tool and workstation. Then you can just facebook live it all and be done. No editing, it's all just live streamed for our enjoyment.

I'd love it if you got an Instagram account just to post like a daily shot from the bench - seeing the ins and outs of the repair world so in depth has been awesome. I'm not joking when I say this is George's cell phone and it literally has 2 phone numbers saved in it. Any type of phone originating...

Vermont Freehand has them in stock

I use the Harbor Freight 2.5hp 21 gallon unit. I also have a pressure pot. I blast at 90psi and get about a minute of blast time before the compressor kicks on. It usually takes me about 45 minutes to blast one of my pipes. If I was to go a bit craggier with the blast I turn the PSI up and it takes...

I use the Harbor Freight 2.5hp 21 gallon unit. I also have a pressure pot. I blast at 90psi and get about a minute of blast time before the compressor kicks on. It usually takes me about 45 minutes to blast one of my pipes. If I was to go a bit craggier with the blast I turn the PSI up and it takes ...