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Wow. That is a very nice pipe, Nick.

Thanks guys.

It's been a fun shape to make. It readily accepts variations in color, stem treatments, degrees of bend, etc. It has also been my most popular shape.

Thanks Nick.

I delivered another watering can to the Pipe and Pint today. You can see it at the bottom of page two of my site, at the link below. I tried some new things with this one (compactness, saddle stem, new stain and stem color combination). Thanks for looking.

Mark

So far, I have not had this happen, but I can see where there could be small variations in diameter.

Those are outstanding, both of them.

ScoJo wrote:My father recently turned 106. One night while out at his favorite Hooters, he misplaced his favorite Piedmont briar...

I'll email him a new one right away. It just wouldn't be right for your dad to go to his favorite Hooters not sporting his Piedmont Briar...

I must not be making enough pipes. I haven't gotten any of these emails.

Very unusual and interesting shape. You did a very nice job keeping the line sharp and crisp where the shank and bowl meet on the bottom. Also the bottom line of the shank and stem flows very well. The more I look at this pipe, the more I like it. There is a lot going on there, and it is very creati...

Two possible fixes: 1) You could chamfer the inlet on the mortise, and make a little depression for the center of the stem to fit in. 2) You could glue some sandpaper (say 400 grit) to the end of the stem, trim the sandpaper to fit the stem, insert the tenon into the mortise, and lightly twist. This...

Very nice pipe, very nice finish. You should be very proud of this one.

Here is how I would do it. Clamp the pipe in my drill press vise using a drill bit down the airway as a guide to make sure the end of the shank is square to the drill press (this assumes that you had drilled the airway and mortise on the same plane. otherwise, use a drill bit in the mortise). Gently...

Depends on several factors. If you are making it for yourself, you could find something to band the shank (metal) to keep it from breaking. Or, if you have enough shank material left, you could remove material past the crack and drill a new mortise. I've done that on a couple of pipes when I have ha...

Neil at Smokin Holsters makes very nice handmade leather socks in a variety of different colors and leathers.

bscofield wrote:too bad you guys weren't arguing about the size of your spade bits... then I would have had a joke for this post...

OK, here goes...

My spade bit is larger than your spade bit.

Yet another reason for drilling into a two by four before you drill into briar when trying a new tool/bit/procedure.

Tyler, sorry, but I didn't mean to imply that your bits were not sharp. Yes, bits are pretty sharp after coming off the grinder, and I have used them just so. However, after grinding, I get a little burr, and I like to take that off on the stone, and while I am there, I just do a little fine tuning....

I am not in the same camp as Tyler. I prefer my spade bits sharp. It just takes about five to ten minutes on a stone after shaping. I think one thing that really helps the performance of a spade bit is making sure both sides are even, ie, are taking off material. To see if this is happening, drill i...

Once you do a few, you will develop processes that work for you. Even with your developed processes, it will still take a lot of time, but it takes a lot of the frustration out of making hand cut stems.

Thanks for the tip John. I'm going to try that.