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Even if you are "out of square" with the press or with a vise under it... it only goes up and down. So even a "crooked" set up should lead a guy to a good fit with the stem - the stem might go at 20 degrees to the shank, but the fit will be flush. So I don't think that's your is...

Could I make a request? Could you use a light, solid background for future photos? The lines on the cloth made it difficult to see the shape of the stem as well as I wanted. Looks danged good, though. As I edge closer to my first lathe pipe, it's getting a little nerve-wracking. Would you suggest d...

Welcome.

First one of the year, and the first one I completed using a lathe. I had a problem with the shank breaking, so that is the reason for the acrylic shank extension. This is also my first handcut stem. So, a lot of new things went on in this one for me. Stummel: briar, shank extension: tortoise acryli...

At least they use Newtons instead of slugs...what a lame unit of measurement...

I am all for the metric system.

I have had the best luck at low speeds and VERY sharp. I turned it at 800 and 1250 and 800 worked better for me. Try not to take too deep of a cut - it is much harder to cut than ebonite and briar. I am using a wood lathe to cut it. I don't recommend using a parting tool. I had the best luck with a ...

I expected more from drunk Sas...

I agree with Yeti. Most of your pipes (the ones I have seen) lack definition and shape. You really have to focus on tucking in the cheeks and keeping a continuous contour from the bottom of the bowl to the end of the stem (button end). Sometimes having a rough drawing can really help give your pipe ...

It is rusticated.

I don't really understand your question. If you can drill the airway, why would you have a problem drilling the mortise and facing the shank? It should be clamped the same way if it is a straight pipe - i.e. the centroidal axis of the airway and mortise should be the same, and the plane of the shank...

RadDavis wrote:If you're talking about a 3/8 mortise in a half inch shank, that could be a little thin and need great care in fitting a stem. You're only leaving 1/16 around the outside if I'm understanding what you're saying.

Rad

That is correct. What is a safe wall thickness on the shank?

I have turned three pipes on the lathe - they never got finished because I keep breaking the shanks! One of them was a catch - which is fine and dandy and understandable; my mistake. The other two however, were from test fitting stems...I am not jamming them in there. They were snug fits at best and...

Nice!

Finally got some time to knock out a pipe. This has some inherent flaws because it was one of the ones I started before I had figured out a procedure that worked for me. Thus, the chamber is a bit off center from the shaping and the shank/stem gap is nowhere near what I would like it to be. I tried ...

Does anyone have plans (drawings) for a set of briar chuck jaws (similar to Rudat or what smokingdawg makes)?

That's no fun...

You should see the drawing for my PITH 2012 - now THAT is fun.

Ocelot55 wrote:I think this video and the one Kurt did on the wood lathe should be "stickied" so newbs like me can reference them with ease.

x2

Excellent video Chris. Nice work! Now, we are all waiting for the finishing video.

I am kinda thinking the french wheel is going to be superfluous for my needs. I am probably going to get an Abralon hook and loop set up. Not sure if I should go independent motor or use the lathe. Opinions on that? Also, do you guys use the three or six inch discs?

Man, your talent has just exploded. I am very impressed with your recent work. I love the style you have developed.

Your pipes always make me want to get off my ass and make one.