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An Tomato that I made just to make a pipe with Hardwood :mrgreen: http://imageshack.us/a/img198/5795/37736286.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img812/498/90926589.jpg One of my favorites, an Italian shaped rustic lovat http://imageshack.us/a/img13/1179/51081099.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img19/4707/159565...

What's your brain made of, sir?

Another awesome work, I'm a big fan of your inspiration...

Helloooooo......Greek pipe maker here!

Why don't you buy one from Greece?

It's a really good looking pipe.

Dublins are easy to make, but this is a liverpool, and you did a really good work on the shank and stem.

PS. I've noticed that you rarely give us straight profile photo of your pipes.That way I can't see your pipe's form on full scale.

Try to buy a good used metal lathe.

But it won;t take you for a walk on the beach.

I have seen once but it was 4-5mm long and something like 0.4-0.5mm thick, it was treated like a normal sandpit and gone in notime...

oklahoma red wrote:Hey, isn't that Sas?

Chas.

Don't buy this thing, save your money for a lathe.

You're a quick learner for sure.

Nice work there, I love the half-saddlle stem and it's not easy to fit one on a pipe succefully.


Well done

I bought a cobalt rod of 5mm diam. and grind its end into a parting tool of 1.1mm, then I put it to a handle I turned.

Impresive!!!

They both looking beautifull, nice grain selection there.

Align the mortise, use a forstner, drill the mortise and switch the tailstock to a live center, press it and lock it against mortise hole.


You can start working on the shank at 1000-1200rpm with gouges and after you get it almost round, you can remove the live center and work it as you want.

Take photos in somethink that will be white or light coloured or get out to the natural light.

All I can see here is a nice shade-shape, lines form and flow are not easy to see.

It's has a nice contrast colour, I don't know what you had in mind, but this is a nice one.

Stem is well made, too.

Use stainless steel tube or hypodermic tube. In order not to get your pipe looking like a mess, try drilling the bamboo with lots of ways. Morisers ans then airway on hand Mortisers, attach tenon then airway to the other end Airway first and any other way you think it might help you. Find out which ...

I take it you're using a metal lathe? This is one reason why I prefer shaping on a wood lathe. I was never any good at the Etch-a-Sketch. I use a parting tool to cut my bowl closer towards the shank on bent pipes. Thats what I suggest, too. Buy a wood lathe parting tool, and learn how to use it, it...

I have achievd a black dress finish on a pipe's top once, by accident.... :oops: the rest of the pipe was rustic so shellac and black dye where mixed in a dark way.... For God's name, what I've done? I have put 30grams of shellac flakes into 50ml of ethyl alcohol, and then mixed it with 50ml of Blac...

Just today I found an Southbend Metal lathe auction.

Than lathe is restoerd and has all it's gears and an extra 4 jaw chuck.

Is there anyone here who have experience in a southbent 24" length lathe? is it accurate?


Thanks,
Michail

It's goddam hard, but here's how I've had pretty good success. Take your Feibing's black and stain the raw pipe black at about 320 or 400. The pipe's gotta be smooth, ready for a finishing process. Let the pipe dry. Mix 5 lb cut shellac (I use orange to counteract the slight blue of the Feibings bl...

Classic shaps with not classic proportions are a little bit monsterous.

I can see a chubby poker lloking like this:



which looks like Thor's hammer.


Yours is too short and chubby, like someone put a straw into a piston.

The first two are shaped well, but the buttons are almost too short. I'd have left those a little taller. Maybe it's an English thing? Even if it was I don't think I'd do it. They're so light I don't honk I could resist clenching them! That green cumberland was an excellent choice for the first. It...