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There were quite a few strong glues more than 300 years ago, most were tree resin based and mixed with filler (such as powdered charcoal) which lessened the brittleness, bone glue is strong but smells even when set. Some I have used in the past: Bluebell sap- fletching arrows Pine sap & charcoal...

Does £60/$90 sound a lot for an all steel thrust bearing? The original is made from phos/bronze alloy and a couple of the ball holes have split, could this be repaired by brazing or would it not be strong enough? I have had two different answers to this one. Apart from this one thing the lathe is go...

I've used a reverse tennon on a couple of really thin shanked pipes where I'm afraid they might crack and I've seen others done with stainless tube as a standard tennon (as in a lot of the bamboooooos).

David.

Ladies and Gentlemen may I present The Beast. The Beast is a 1921 Drummond M Type, the forerunner of the Myford series lathes. During the re-assembly I discovered that several bits were missing so it has not gone back together as original. I'm getting some bits from other members of the Drummond Use...

Before I buy a chuck would like to hear some thoughts.

Michail, I love the idea but with the size of some of the blocks I use it would not work as the vice is not deep enough to allow for rotation.

David.

Strange but true:

Brebbia bought a load of pipes from China during the late 40's and 50's and employed people to paint the grain on, some of the most famous were carved as young ladies

David.

A cross axis vice.

David.

Thanks, I need to think about this one.

David.

So I'm not making a silly mistake, which is what is worrying me.

SAS & fuchi_jeg would that mean a flatter bottom to the chamber is needed/better because if I drill for a side entry the bottom of the chamber ends up below the airway, with the bit shown it would be about 4mm.

David.

Ok this is the way I have been drilling my chambers, the idea is to put the draft hole as near the centre bottom of the chamber as possible. http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/8/9/7/9/8/1/webimg/650626798_o.jpg http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/8/9/7/9/8/1/webimg/650626788_o.jpg http://img.auctiva.com/imgd...

Thanks Ernie, it's not the idea it's the execution.

Taper on stem noted. Chamber drilling, I have got into the habit of leaving a slot in the bottom of the chamber that leads to the draught hole it is not as pronounced on this one because of the cant. I have had mixed reactions to the idea but generally positive, most feel that it improves the even ...

CANT= Forward leaning, on the billiard family the chamber traditionally leans forward by 3-8 degrees, this is normally reflected in the rim. RADIUS= The curve at the bottom of the bowl, mines a bit squarish TAPER STEM= Starting from the mortice the stem should taper evenly down to the bit, the taper...

I should have posted this earlier. A BIG thank you to Steve from Vermont Freehand. Steve was kind enough to take on my debt from Yazid and has sent me my money, he is in a far better position to get the money from Yazid than I ever will be short of going to Algeria. The difference this will make is ...

Taper on stem noted. Chamber drilling, I have got into the habit of leaving a slot in the bottom of the chamber that leads to the draught hole it is not as pronounced on this one because of the cant. I have had mixed reactions to the idea but generally positive, most feel that it improves the even b...

Thanks, As has been pointed out no end of times getting the billiard right is a kind of way marker in the pipe makers journey, while the angle of the rim (parallel to the shank) is not really classic it gives the pipe a 'speedy' look which I like. The pipe lost a lot of weight getting the shank/bowl...

I kid you not in four years I have never made a straight billiard, bent ones, Lovats, Canadians and other variations yes. Greek briar, gold plated band. Airway:3.75mm 9/64 -ish Stem material: Delrin/Ebonite Overall length: 15cm 5 7/8" Stummel: 7.5x5cm 2 15/16x1 15/16" Chamber: 2x4cm 3/4x1 ...