pipemakersforum.com

Thanks guys, anytime I use masking as a bottom layer I always find the electrical tape creeps off the edge. Maybe I'm stretching the black tape too much. Anyhow, I did order some 3M 471 tape (Vinyl) and I know it works real well on it's own and with no residue, just a lot more money then the plain e...

Do you all have this problem or only a few of us? When removing the masking off a blasted pipe I always get black residue left from the tape and I use 3M electrical tape. It's easy enough to get of with a little alcohol but, I'd rather use something that doesn't leave residue behind. Researched a fe...

Sasquatch wrote:Not entirely sure on the bent briar - steam is my guess but it's only a guess.

I thought that too but, like you said, just a guess. Would be great to see one made but, I don't reckon they'd
want to give up any info like that.

So in general, you are seeing a briar "sleeve" over an acrylic middle. In specific, the acrylic middle stops in the barrel of the shoulder, just exactly the opposite of how the briar stops at the bit end - imagine giant acrylic nail driven into briar, then shaped into a stem. It is possib...

With a suitable back plate you can put any chuck on any lathe (within reason). I use a 100mm 4jaw self centre chuck as the basis for my pipemaking chuck, they cost about £125 with backplate. You could modify the existing jaws or buy extras which I did. Trent Rudat made the custom jaws for me as it ...

Both my Oneway Chucks have slop, in fact one is 10 thousands off center and the other is 20, and stopped using it because of it. There made for wood turners and not for precision work needed when drilling a mortise or turning tenons and that's why there only $199. $199 strikes me as very expensive ...

Both my Oneway Chucks have slop, in fact one is 10 thousands off center and the other is 20, and stopped using it because of it.
There made for wood turners and not for precision work needed when drilling a mortise or turning tenons and that's why there only $199.

One factor on the etch-a-sketch method is your lathe. If you have a 7x20, good luck. The tiny wheels make it really hard. The bigger the handwheels, the easier it is to etch-a-sketch. On my 12” it’s pretty easy to get close to what I want, then I just refine it with sand paper. Yeah, I have an old ...

I've tried and use the etch a sketch style when turning bulldogs and the like but, when turning a stem I prefer to turn it as if it was on a wood lathe and place a piece of square stock in the tool post and use it as a tool rest and use gouges to shape fancy stems. Although one has to be careful if ...

mightysmurf8201 wrote:I found this- https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/esta ... _id=146525

Yeah, I found that too, it's a shame there's just nothing out there about the guy.

Anyone remember or know a John Chapman? I don't know his user name or even if he was a member but, I found a pipe stamped John Chapman "77" and was just wondering more about him. The pipe is a freehand and looks to be executed fairly well except someone had broke it at the shank and tried ...

Tim West http://www.jhlowe.com/briar.htm bottom of page.

Mark Tinsky http://webshop.amsmoke.com/Pipe-Kits/

Could be a burr you missed on the underside of the slide or some steel components are not fully cased harden and is only a thin layer of hardening that in time is worn through, especially when there are two different type steels used in the manufacturing process, the harder of the two being much thi...

You did your homework sir, I also find that when the war was over and we started using Import briar again, they started marking the pipes as such "IMPORTED BRIAR". Now I don't know if that could be used to determine if a pipe was manufactured after the war or not but, sounds like it could.

Just my 2 cents, if I'm not mistaken several companies used Manzanita/ Mission Briar to make pipes during the war years when briar was next to impossible to get.
And I heard a lot or all of it came from California, hence the name Mission Briar I suppose.

I think whatever works for you is just fine. I don't see the need for 1 or 2hp motors for buffing in fact I wouldn't use them for pipes that's for sure. Have a dual shaft 3/4 hp 3600 rpm buffer I moved out to the shed because they're designed for buffing brass, aluminum etc. not pipes. I have a smal...

seamonster wrote:My original question was about a stummel that was shaped first, drilled second. It was never checked up.

sent from my blah-dee-blah using hooty-hoo

That certainly explains it all sir, I reckon I missed that part, A.D.D. in action.

Every once in a while I don't like how I shaped the rim while the pipe was on the lathe. And every once in a while I screw up my shaping and need to reshape the top of the bowl. Since I don't have pin guages that are big enough I get a dowel and make a jamb chuck. Okay! If I screw it up I just fix ...

I use the jamb chuck to correct or refine the bowl top after I have the pipe off the lathe and mostly shaped. Using a jamb chuck is a quick and easy way to remount the pipe, after it is shaped, and accurately cut the rim to shape and have it be perpendicular to the chamber Okay, that's what I don't...

I'm no master or genius but, I've used the ball method and didn't really care for the concave bevel it produced so I just cut it on the lathe at about 45 degrees with a boring bar because it's smaller in circumference, right after I drill the chamber. I don't understand this Jamb Chuck thing. Why wo...